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Prepping for GEPRC Leopard build...

Jtrjr

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Trying to get back in the saddle again. Decided to start on another build. This will be the 5" Leopard.

IT WILL NOT BE BUILT TO "THEGREENORANGE" SPECS!
(I do not possess the patience, meticulous attention to detail, the expertise or the time to meet that specification!)

IT WILL BE OF THE SLAM, BAM, PUT IT IN THE AIR, CRASH IT, FIX IT AND GET IT UP AGAIN VARIETY!
(A bit more up my alley!)

Here's the start of the build list:

GEPRC Leopard (LX5 220mm) Frame
CL Racing F4 or BetaFlight F3 Flight Controller (Probably the F4)
Aikon SEFM 30A ESC's
EMax RS2205(S) 2300kv Motors
IRC Tramp HV VTX
Foxeer Arrow V3 600TVL CCD FPV Camera
FrSky XSR or XM+ Receiver (Would prefer to use XSR but it may not fit)
EMax Pagoda II (Maarten Baert) VTX Antenna

I would prefer to use the F4 FC but I haven't used it before so as everyone knows, I'll have the tried and true Betaflight F3 as a backup. I'll use the XSR if it'll fit. I may also try a different FPV camera, the Arrow V3 is probably overkill for this build and it'll add additional weight. I've got the parts assembled for mock-up, just got to get the time to get started.

Jerry

Leopard Build Parts.JPG
 
Trying to get back in the saddle again. Decided to start on another build. This will be the 5" Leopard.

IT WILL NOT BE BUILT TO "THEGREENORANGE" SPECS!
(I do not possess the patience, meticulous attention to detail, the expertise or the time to meet that specification!)

IT WILL BE OF THE SLAM, BAM, PUT IT IN THE AIR, CRASH IT, FIX IT AND GET IT UP AGAIN VARIETY!
(A bit more up my alley!)

Here's the start of the build list:

GEPRC Leopard (LX5 220mm) Frame
CL Racing F4 or BetaFlight F3 Flight Controller (Probably the F4)
Aikon SEFM 30A ESC's
EMax RS2205(S) 2300kv Motors
IRC Tramp HV VTX
Foxeer Arrow V3 600TVL CCD FPV Camera
FrSky XSR or XM+ Receiver (Would prefer to use XSR but it may not fit)
EMax Pagoda II (Maarten Baert) VTX Antenna

I would prefer to use the F4 FC but I haven't used it before so as everyone knows, I'll have the tried and true Betaflight F3 as a backup. I'll use the XSR if it'll fit. I may also try a different FPV camera, the Arrow V3 is probably overkill for this build and it'll add additional weight. I've got the parts assembled for mock-up, just got to get the time to get started.

Jerry

View attachment 1115
Man, wish that pile was sitting on my bench!..lol I'm a pop it together and slap a battery in it kinda guy myself. I do enjoy watching Greens builds here, maybe one day i'll spend time with one. Building my LSX6 soon, still need to pick out motors tho. The akk vtx fits real good between the rails on my 6" leapord, may be an option for you. Good to see ya back
 
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All you guys and these awesome builds are making me jealous. I think I have to learn to solder really keen to try my own one day. You tube time on solder and builds I think. Looks like it will be sweet Jerry
I find soldering easy as long as i keep my tip clean and wet with solder
 
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I'm slowly starting the research and mock-up phase of the Leopard build. I think I've already decided to scratch the CL Racing F4 board. It sounds like a decent board for the most part, especially for a simplistic build but it's fairly basic and I've read of quite a few video signal and OSD issues. If I didn't care about OSD, I'd probably use it. So it's back to the "tried & true" BetaFlight F3 AIO. I'm also thinking of trying the Runcam Split on this bird so I don't have to carry the extra weight of a GoPro. The split is getting mixed reviews but I'd like to see if it performs good enough to abandon the external HD camera. I'll use the CL Racing F4 without the OSD installed and the Arrow V3 (has it's own basic OSD) in a future build.

Jerry

LeopardBuild-MU01.JPG LeopardBuild-MU02.JPG
 
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Hey Jerry , definitely a post I will be following closely as I will be attempting my first build soon. I will look into it myself but am I correct in assuming the split can record your flight as well as being your onboard fpv camera?
 
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I find soldering easy as long as i keep my tip clean and wet with solder
Great advice Vv,
Also to keep your soldering iron tip in good shape just keep a bunch of solder hanging off of it anytime you aren't actually soldering a connection. Heat will attack the tip and burn the cladding off of it unless it has something else to attack, and a tip without good cladding wont transfer heat well at all and will be very hard to solder with, the solder ball will be that sacrificial element that will save your tip. And re-tinning the tip often with fresh solder will go a long way to making your tips last and keeping it ready so your soldering is better electrically and cosmetically.
 
Virtue,

Yeah, I've done that before. When I'm using the BFF3 AIO it's not a big deal because I just have the one board. On this build I've got the BFF3 and the Split boards, then it's just getting the Tramp, the Tramp antenna lead, the XSR and the beeper stuffed in there.

Jerry
 
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Virtue,

Yeah, I've done that before. When I'm using the BFF3 AIO it's not a big deal because I just have the one board. On this build I've got the BFF3 and the Split boards, then it's just getting the Tramp, the Tramp antenna lead, the XSR and the beeper stuffed in there.

Jerry
Its tight in there, real satisfying when ya get it all in there...lol
 
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HTP,

If it were me, I'd put the receiver in there and fly the heck out of it! That's why you bought an ARF, to fly it. As far as contributing, I think you have a lot to offer already as indicated in your post #9 of this very thread!

Jerry
 
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The Split wouldn't fit. I'm gonna make it fit though. I had to take the stock plastic bracket, remove two of the brass inserts and shave the bump out where they were down to be flush with the rest of the bracket. I also had to cut a small peice off the Leopards camera side plates to ensure that it doesn't contact the Swift board in the stack. Although the task was fairly minor it took quite a bit of time to figure out how I could modify things to make it work.

Jerry

IMG_8191.JPG IMG_8193.JPG IMG_8196.JPG IMG_8198.JPG IMG_8199.JPG
 
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