Mobula7 EU-LBT TaranisQ X7 Binding Problem!

[HighTechPauper]

@thedroneracingpilot
Here is the cable I use, it is just a "servo cable" and I inserted the 90 degree header pins in one end to push against the solder joints on the RX to flash it. You do not need to attach a battery or anything, the RX will get power, ground and SBUS through the cable from the radio.

 

[opts]

hey thedroneracingpilot, Yes, Point 1 and 2 are correct!
Point 3 - not quite - you need to make the connection on the other end of the XM+ (3 solder pads with Red/Black/Yellow wires attached).
I used what's known as Dupont Wire/Cable (male-to-female) the ends look like this:

the female "socket" plugs into the pins in Taranis S-Port, and the male "Pin" is held firmly onto one of the three solder pads on the XM+ . I found that the clear heat shrink on the xm+ held them in place pretty well, Obviously you need three wires; one for each of the three s-port pins on the Taranis, which then connect to the three solder pads on the xm+. no need to plug in the battery.


HighTechPauper is too kind! I think it was actually Tevek that suggested the no-desoldering approach!

Let us know how you get on though - once i'd done this everything worked great!

to bind:
Put QX7 into:
XJT D16 mode.
Failsafe: No pulses
then select Bind mode - it will start bleeping.

Next, hold the bind button on the XM+ while connecting the battery. (it's fiddly but you'll get it. I used a blunt bamboo skewer to push the tiny button)
The Green light on xm+ goes solid, release button on xm+ and stop Bind mode on QX7.
Disconnect, then reconnect battery on the Mob7 and it should all be bound!

Finally connect to betaflight to set up your switches and sticks etc. and fly!

​

 

[thedroneracingpilot]

Hi @HighTechPauper & @opts,
I just flashed my Taranis Q x7 with the XJT_NONEU_170317.frk unfortunately the module D8 does not appear. is it normal?

 

[thedroneracingpilot]

Do I have to this step too @HighTechPauper

1. Yes, reload the TX by unchecking the EU box, and also you can check the NoHeli box since you will not be flying collective pitch helis, and if you ever do (doubtful) you can always change it later.

 

[opts]

Hi @HighTechPauper & @opts,
I just flashed my Taranis Q x7 with the XJT_NONEU_170317.frk unfortunately the module D8 does not appear. is it normal?

View attachment 4664View attachment 4665

did you also copy over the matching OpenTX sd card contents?

 

[HighTechPauper]

Do I have to this step too @HighTechPauper

1. Yes, reload the TX by unchecking the EU box, and also you can check the NoHeli box since you will not be flying collective pitch helis, and if you ever do (doubtful) you can always change it later.

Yes, that is why you don't have D8, and D8 is the best for the small whoops because D16 has been known to have fail-safes, they said they were going to fix the issue but I am not sure if they ever did.

 

[HighTechPauper]

did you also copy over the matching OpenTX sd card contents?

That is for the OpenTX rev, not the XJT FW.

 

[opts]

That is for the OpenTX rev, not the XJT FW.

oh ok

 

[thedroneracingpilot]

Okey (@HighTechPauper & @opts ) I got the radio control OpentTx updated with the build options and now I have the D8 too!


What's interesting is that some people seem to flash their radio directly by plugin it with a usb cable and after setting the news builds the computer OpenTx software ask them to flash their radio control. Me in the other hand my mac software OpenTx doesn't seem to detect the radio when I connect it via USB so what I do is to apply the settings and than I download the frameware and save it in my SD CARD -> FIRMWARE folder. After saving it I plug the SD card back to the radio and I enter in the boot mode and I flash it with the new .bin file.
is that okey?

 

[thedroneracingpilot]

So now lets talk about the next step the one that I am more worry about, but at the same time very exited because it will be the first time I do any soldering job.

1 - the software XM+ is ready in my SD card




2 - Now I need to choose between which cable to use right? Which one do you guys think its easier to solder?

*Here is a pic of the receiver

 

[opts]

So now lets talk about the next step the one that I am more worry about, but at the same time very exited because it will be the first time I do any soldering job.

1 - the software XM+ is ready in my SD card

View attachment 4670


2 - Now I need to choose between which cable to use right? Which one do you guys think its easier to solder?

*Here is a pic of the receiver

View attachment 4671

I didn't have to solder anything - just hold the jumper cable wires/pins onto the red/black/yellow connections.
it was really easy actually.

edit: see my previous post;
"I used what's known as Dupont Wire/Cable (male-to-female) the ends look like this:

the female "socket" plugs into the pins in Taranis S-Port, and the male "Pin" is held firmly onto one of the three solder pads on the XM+ . I found that the clear heat shrink on the xm+ held them in place pretty well, Obviously you need three wires; one for each of the three s-port pins on the Taranis, which then connect to the three solder pads on the xm+. no need to plug in the battery."

 

[HighTechPauper]

You look good to go, I would try to figure out a way to do it without de-soldering, but if you can solder it would be a short job, yes you will want to re-insulate against shgorting anything after but you can always use some electrical tape, but clear heat shrink is easier so you can see the LED's. Make sure you are putting all NONEU files, NOT LBT which IS EU (EU/LBT Listen Before Talk, which is one of the EU requirements along with no D8).

 

[thedroneracingpilot]

I didn't have to solder anything - just hold the jumper cable wires/pins onto the red/black/yellow connections.
it was really easy actually.

edit: see my previous post;
"I used what's known as Dupont Wire/Cable (male-to-female) the ends look like this:

the female "socket" plugs into the pins in Taranis S-Port, and the male "Pin" is held firmly onto one of the three solder pads on the XM+ . I found that the clear heat shrink on the xm+ held them in place pretty well, Obviously you need three wires; one for each of the three s-port pins on the Taranis, which then connect to the three solder pads on the xm+. no need to plug in the battery."

Hi @opts
I do not understand how do you manage to held firmly the male Pin into the pads on the XM+?

 

[thedroneracingpilot]

You look good to go, I would try to figure out a way to do it without de-soldering, but if you can solder it would be a short job, yes you will want to re-insulate against shgorting anything after but you can always use some electrical tape, but clear heat shrink is easier so you can see the LED's. Make sure you are putting all NONEU files, NOT LBT which IS EU (EU/LBT Listen Before Talk, which is one of the EU requirements along with no D8).

Hi @HighTechPauper
Thanks for warning me about the mistake I have done yesterday I put in the SD card the wrong file XM+LBT170313-RSSI16.frk, I just change it now to the right one XM+FCC170313-RSSI16.frk.

One question about the FCC and LBT. Since I live in europe shouldn't my radio and my receiver be configurated for LBT ?

 

[opts]

Hi @HighTechPauper
Thanks for warning me about the mistake I have done yesterday I put in the SD card the wrong file XM+LBT170313-RSSI16.frk, I just change it now to the right one XM+FCC170313-RSSI16.frk.

One question about the FCC and LBT. Since I live in europe shouldn't my radio and my receiver be configurated for LBT ?

I live in europe too, I use FCC - FCC is way more common, has D8 and easy to find tutorials on too.

 

[opts]

Hi @opts
I do not understand how do you manage to held firmly the male Pin into the pads on the XM+?

View attachment 4672

Just hold it with one hand, push the button to update on the Taranis with the other hand - it only takes a few seconds

 

[HighTechPauper]

Technically, yes, everything should be on EU/LBT, but it is much more limited and the chances anyone would ever know is very very small. In the EU you are not supposed to have D8 because it was not an LBT design, also you are not supposed to go over 25mw for your vTX, these things make it so that you can't use with your whoop class quads that are often D8 and at 25mw for your video it reduces how far you can go and how bad the video gets going around trees or anything else.

I think Opts just pushed the pins under the heat shrink in the correct locations and then just put some pressure on the area to make sure connection lasted for the few seconds it needed to flash the RX, if you have the radio all set up to the point of a single button press to start the flash, often you can just hold the pins or even tinned wire (very short exposed wire, not too long or you could short something else) across the pads with your finger while it flashes.

 

[opts]

Technically, yes, everything should be on EU/LBT, but it is much more limited and the chances anyone would ever know is very very small. In the EU you are not supposed to have D8 because it was not an LBT design, also you are not supposed to go over 25mw for your vTX, these things make it so that you can't use with your whoop class quads that are often D8 and at 25mw for your video it reduces how far you can go and how bad the video gets going around trees or anything else.

I think Opts just pushed the pins under the heat shrink in the correct locations and then just put some pressure on the area to make sure connection lasted for the few seconds it needed to flash the RX, if you have the radio all set up to the point of a single button press to start the flash, often you can just hold the pins or even tinned wire (very short exposed wire, not too long or you could short something else) across the pads with your finger while it flashes.

100% that's what I did!

 

[thedroneracingpilot]

Well this afternoon I went to all the electronic stores and I think I found the cables. is this the right one?

 

[thedroneracingpilot]

I must plug them here right?