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First build! help...

justin_b

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Hi all,

Im busy with my first build - a beta 85x whoop frame , betafpv aio 12a f4, tbs nano pro vtx, frsky xm+ and a zo2 camera...

Ive soldered everything up (terribly, not shiny and smooth like the yt vids :fear:) and theres power to all
components (leds are lit) the problem is i managed to remove the sbus pd on the fc.

Where else could i connect the the rx to? Anyone know how many uarts does this aio board have? Ive done a lot of googling... trying to figure out this issue. Fport protocols, inverted signals, bridging circuits etc a bit confusing... 2CE27DFB-8A60-4F22-AA1E-3A636EF62A81.jpg

Pls help...
 

rtkDarling

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Welcome!
That yellow wire is going to S-bus which is the pad right next to the red wire.



The first guide will show you how to turn on sbus in betaflight, the second guide is a checklist of things to test and check once your build is done. Don't worry about inversion, this board has it built in.


 

HighTechPauper

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I agree, it looks like the SBus pad is intact there next to the red wire from the RX (S), what pad did you remove based on RTK's board diagram above? Cause it doesn't look like it was the SBus pad.
 

justin_b

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I took it to the local drone supply store and they helped me fix the issue. Tried soldering onto the sbus pad again there but it didn’t take. So then put it on the rx2 pad and soldered a wire to the middle pin on the xm+ chip to get an uninverted signal as per the getfpv how to. We(they) then changed the cli to uninverted off and it worked... connected to the transmitter and now I’m just trying to tune it...

3motors spin up when arming then on hover it drifts quite a bit, so much so it seems I’m at full roll. maybe its the mode... I haven’t changed any pids yet or tried a los flight. I have calibrated the accelerometer and gyro on betaflight. What else could i change?
 

rtkDarling

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A fair amount of drift is normal, any rigs that don't drift (like a DJI) have GPS hold to "actively" stay in place. Keeping a done in place is like balancing a rod on your finger: constant minor corrections
 
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HighTechPauper

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Only 3 motors starting up at arm time is an issue, it could be whats causing the severe drift, or maybe re calibrate the accelerometer and put it down as soon as possible after plugging in the battery so that the Gyro get calibrated properly.
 

justin_b

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Only 3 motors starting up at arm time is an issue, it could be whats causing the severe drift, or maybe re calibrate the accelerometer and put it down as soon as possible after plugging in the battery so that the Gyro get calibrated properly.
The problem seemed to be the motor wires rubbing in the bell of the motor... rerouted the wires and all seems fine now. Ive now got another problem. Im new to flying with only a couple hours total in flight time, so i crash. I now have no video in my goggles, recon v3 box goggles, if that makes a difference. I do have all the other data displaying though. Rssi, bat voltage etc. could it be a bad vtx or camera? (Eos 2) all the connections look to be intact still though...
 

justin_b

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If your other data is showing then the VTX is good. Check the cam wires, power ground and signal, and if they're all good then it's likely the camera is done
Thanx. Will have a closer look. I did check if the wires had come loose but it seemed ok... it’d be a bit disappointing if the camera is dead after one crash... I’ve hardly flown this drone...
 
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HighTechPauper

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Crashing breaks things, we can't change that, and being disappointed happens.

Rules for testing your issue...
Black screen instead of snow means vTX is working
If OSD is visible then the OSD chip is still working on the output side.
Wire camera signal directly to the vTX input, if it works it is the FC between cam in to the OSD input (replace FC)
If it doesn't work, it is the camera.
All of this assumes no broken wires or bad connections, there can be a broken wire in the middle of the sheathing/insulation, but you can't see it because it is covered by said insulation, test with a meter and redo the soldering to make sure.
 
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justin_b

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Crashing breaks things, we can't change that, and being disappointed happens.

Rules for testing your issue...
Black screen instead of snow means vTX is working
If OSD is visible then the OSD chip is still working on the output side.
Wire camera signal directly to the vTX input, if it works it is the FC between cam in to the OSD input (replace FC)
If it doesn't work, it is the camera.
All of this assumes no broken wires or bad connections, there can be a broken wire in the middle of the sheathing/insulation, but you can't see it because it is covered by said insulation, test with a meter and redo the soldering to make sure.
Thanx for the tips... i did try to resolder camera wires power ground etc, also tried to do as you suggested by adding the camera directly to the vtx out. Or did you mean onto the vtx itself? I have a tbs nano and not sure where to solder it tbh.

I had the osd displays with a clear display. To then get a broken display with osd. Really not sure what to do. Probably fried the fc by overheating while soldering.
 

HighTechPauper

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Wow, I did not know you had a Nano, that is an awfully small thing to work on! I have one but I haven't had to work on it since it is still flying and working fine. From re-reading this post I thought this was the BetaFPV 85X.

I am not sure I understand what your current indications are now. Do you have a black screen in your goggles or display or snow? Do you see the OSD or not?

Normally the camera video signal output (usually a Yellow wire) goes to the FC to pick up the OSD and then out of the FC to the vTX video signal input (also usually a Yellow wire). Sometimes the camera is fine and the vTX is fine but the FC/OSD is broken, so temporarily connecting the 2 yellow wire together instead of them connecting to the FC can tell you if it is the FC or the camera that is broken because you are bypassing the FC altogether for the video feed.
 

justin_b

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Wow, I did not know you had a Nano, that is an awfully small thing to work on! I have one but I haven't had to work on it since it is still flying and working fine. From re-reading this post I thought this was the BetaFPV 85X.

I am not sure I understand what your current indications are now. Do you have a black screen in your goggles or display or snow? Do you see the OSD or not?

Normally the camera video signal output (usually a Yellow wire) goes to the FC to pick up the OSD and then out of the FC to the vTX video signal input (also usually a Yellow wire). Sometimes the camera is fine and the vTX is fine but the FC/OSD is broken, so temporarily connecting the 2 yellow wire together instead of them connecting to the FC can tell you if it is the FC or the camera that is broken because you are bypassing the FC altogether for the video feed.
I have an 85x frame only. The camera was at fault. The power wire came loose under the betafpv sealant so it couldn’t be seen. I suppose while moving the camera/canopy around it I wasn’t pulling hard enough on the wire to get it to break free.

I wasn’t getting any snow. Just a black screen with the osd displaying...
 

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