Problems with my eachine wizard x220 please help

[Jammy1989]

So ive recently got the wizard(what flight time i had was great). On christmas day like a fool i stupidly attached a 4s battery with too much power output(i assume).

Instantly after attaching the battery i saw 1 of the esc's catch fire so i removed the battery as fast as i could.
Now when i put my normal battery in i get no led lights come on, neither the motors do anything also the start up chyme is no longer the same or arm with the controller.

Please dont tell me i have ruined my wizard?!
I replaced my escs with slightly better 1's(all 4) but clearly more has been damaged.
Im literally the biggest noob with this at the moment and im just getting started but any help would be much appreciated.

Here is a small vid of start up and no led lights etc and my new esc's.

Tapatalk Cloud - Downlaoad File 20180102_231121.mp4

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[HighTechPauper]

I dont think your 4s was too much power or anything, I run nothing but 4s on all 3 of my Wizard X220 birds and never had a problem.
I will say that the ESC's that come on the Wizard X220 are the weak point, I have blown 4 or 5 of them in the last 3 or 4 months. Also the first thing I did was remove all the wires for the leds on 2 of the 3 because it just eats battery faster with them and the led boards on these are known to short at the motor screw head after a while.

2 things of note about your video...
The esc's are starting but not finishing the calibration tone, if you are running Oneshot125 or Multishot have you calibrated your esc's?
The leds not lighting may say you have a short, or maybe your 5v BEC is blown which would keep you FC from working also. Does your FC light up with the blue and/or red led like normal?

I am pretty darned familiar with this model as I have and fly 3 of them, I will do what I can to help. Here is my motley squadron... so far.

 

[HighTechPauper]

BTW, you haven't ruined your X220, you've only broken it, like you will do dozens of times in the future, but it can always be fixed.

Also, when I said I remove the LED wires, I only remove the wires because if I remove the LED boards at this time the motor screws will be too long and hit my motor winding without the extra thickness of the LED boards. But as you can see from this picture, and all mine look the same or worse, the LED boards do take a beating even with foam feet on the arms and wont work very long for you anyway.

 

[Jammy1989]

I dont think your 4s was too much power or anything, I run nothing but 4s on all 3 of my Wizard X220 birds and never had a problem.
I will say that the ESC's that come on the Wizard X220 are the weak point, I have blown 4 or 5 of them in the last 3 or 4 months. Also the first thing I did was remove all the wires for the leds on 2 of the 3 because it just eats battery faster with them and the led boards on these are known to short at the motor screw head after a while.

2 things of note about your video...
The esc's are starting but not finishing the calibration tone, if you are running Oneshot125 or Multishot have you calibrated your esc's?
The leds not lighting may say you have a short, or maybe your 5v BEC is blown which would keep you FC from working also. Does your FC light up with the blue and/or red led like normal?

I am pretty darned familiar with this model as I have and fly 3 of them, I will do what I can to help. Here is my motley squadron... so far.

No my fc doesnt light up blue or red now :/ and sorry could you tell me what BEC is lol im just getting to know all the abreviations [emoji28]

And i dont know if im running oneshot or multishot i bought the wizard RTF and havent changed a thing until now. I will connect to my computer tommorow and see what i can do.
Your squadron looks awesome bud! [emoji106]

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[Wayno52]

Randy is definitely the man when it comes to the wizards. Hmmmm new nick name lol

 

[VirtueViolater]

Older wizards were 3s

 

[HighTechPauper]

Older wizards were 3s

Since the only piece that is relevant to the batt cells is the ESC because the cam/vtx/FC all run on 5v or 12v, I cant imagine that he applied a 4s to an ESC that is labeled 2-3s, plus he said he just got it so I figured he is 4s capable.

EDIT: I guess if the PDB is 2-3s only that could be a possibility also, my bad

 

[HighTechPauper]

Randy is definitely the man when it comes to the wizards. Hmmmm new nick name lol

So would that make me HighTechWizard or WizardPauper?!?

 

[Jammy1989]

Since the only piece that is relevant to the batt cells is the ESC because the cam/vtx/FC all run on 5v or 12v, I cant imagine that he applied a 4s to an ESC that is labeled 2-3s, plus he said he just got it so I figured he is 4s capable.

The 4s battery i attached was 14.8v - way too high for standard escs? I dont get no lights at all come on but when plug it into computer i get the red n blue light come on at the fc

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[HighTechPauper]

No my fc doesnt light up blue or red now :/ and sorry could you tell me what BEC is lol im just getting to know all the abreviations [emoji28]

And i dont know if im running oneshot or multishot i bought the wizard RTF and havent changed a thing until now. I will connect to my computer tommorow and see what i can do.
Your squadron looks awesome bud! [emoji106]

From a wiki page...
A battery eliminator circuit (BEC) is an electronic circuit designed to deliver electrical power to other circuitry without the need for multiple batteries.

When I said that what I really meant was the 5v regulator on the PDB, since the FC and the LED's all run on 5v you either have a short somewhere or your 5v regulator could be blown. You wont be able to hook it up to the PC until you figure out what the problem is with 5 volts and fix it. If you have a multimeter you should check to see if an LED board positive pad is shorted to the negative pad. That should give you an idea if you have a short somewhere on the Wizard.

I checked mine and have about 3000 ohms between the positive and negative (3k ohms).

If yo think you may have a short, the first thing I would suggest is with props off, remove all the screws that mount the motors onto the arms and leave the motors and LED boards loose and try your 3s batt to see if your Flight Controller lights up then. If you look real close at the LED boards you can see that the traces carrying power goes underneath some of the motor mounting screw heads and there is only a little bit of conformal coating to keep it from shorting to the screw which would short your 5v to the carbon frame and/or motor base. Also check all the LED board wires for any damage that could allow any of the red wires to be shorting to the carbon frame.

Since you haven't changed any settings in BetaFlight you are running Oneshot125 ESC protocol (the default) and you will need to cal the new ESC's eventually but your big issue right now is 5 volts.

 

[HighTechPauper]

The 4s battery i attached was 14.8v - way too high for standard escs? I dont get no lights at all come on but when plug it into computer i get the red n blue light come on at the fc

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Forgot that the FC will take power from the USB when it is plugged into the PC, still doesnt change the equation for you, there is a problem with 5 volts. A 4s batt will have a maximum voltage or 16.8-ish and if your old esc's were labeled 2-4s then I dont think that is your problem. Did you buy this new just a few months ago or did you get it used? If it is newer it should have been a 4s capable and it may just be coincidental that is blew when you plugged the 4s into it.

 

[Jammy1989]

From a wiki page...
A battery eliminator circuit (BEC) is an electronic circuit designed to deliver electrical power to other circuitry without the need for multiple batteries.

When I said that what I really meant was the 5v regulator on the PDB, since the FC and the LED's all run on 5v you either have a short somewhere or your 5v regulator could be blown. You wont be able to hook it up to the PC until you figure out what the problem is with 5 volts and fix it. If you have a multimeter you should check to see if an LED board positive pad is shorted to the negative pad. That should give you an idea if you have a short somewhere on the Wizard.

I checked mine and have about 3000 ohms between the positive and negative (3k ohms).

If yo think you may have a short, the first thing I would suggest is with props off, remove all the screws that mount the motors onto the arms and leave the motors and LED boards loose and try your 3s batt to see if your Flight Controller lights up then. If you look real close at the LED boards you can see that the traces carrying power goes underneath some of the motor mounting screw heads and there is only a little bit of conformal coating to keep it from shorting to the screw which would short your 5v to the carbon frame and/or motor base. Also check all the LED board wires for any damage that could allow any of the red wires to be shorting to the carbon frame.

Since you haven't changed any settings in BetaFlight you are running Oneshot125 ESC protocol (the default) and you will need to cal the new ESC's eventually but your big issue right now is 5 volts.

Thanks wizardpauper u are massive help ill get a volt reader and see if i can find wheres shorting out/not getting power.

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[HighTechPauper]

Thanks wizardpauper u are massive help ill get a volt reader and see if i can find wheres shorting out/not getting power.

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Glad to help all I can Jammy, let me know what you find. Definitely check your ohms of resistance first between 5v and ground, that should tell you a lot.

 

[Jammy1989]

Forgot that the FC will take power from the USB when it is plugged into the PC, still doesnt change the equation for you, there is a problem with 5 volts. A 4s batt will have a maximum voltage or 16.8-ish and if your old esc's were labeled 2-4s then I dont think that is your problem. Did you buy this new just a few months ago or did you get it used? If it is newer it should have been a 4s capable and it may just be coincidental that is blew when you plugged the 4s into it.

It was brand new from bangood the times i took it out for a fly i was always careful, i had a 4s battery and was just curious what power difference it gave. Then thats when i plugged it in to see then zap lol. Curiousity got the better of me before checking if it could handle it [emoji21]

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[HighTechPauper]

Hey Jammy, if you decide that the 5v regulator is toast your best option is to put a new PDB in the bird. It will take some disassembly and soldering but they are pretty cheap so there is that. below is a few links so you know what you are looking for and have a price comparison since I dont know where you live and who you can order from.

Matek Mini Power Hub Power Distribution Board With BEC 5V And 12V for RC Drone FPV Racing

Eachine Wizard X220 PDB Board with BEC 5V/ 12V

 

[Jammy1989]

Hey Jammy, if you decide that the 5v regulator is toast your best option is to put a new PDB in the bird. It will take some disassembly and soldering but they are pretty cheap so there is that. below is a few links so you know what you are looking for and have a price comparison since I dont know where you live and who you can order from.

Matek Mini Power Hub Power Distribution Board With BEC 5V And 12V for RC Drone FPV Racing

Eachine Wizard X220 PDB Board with BEC 5V/ 12V

Awesome , I live on the isle of wight in england. Thanks for the links i might order both of them so ive got a spare. I need to get tinkering with it abit more so i familiarised myself with the components abit better

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[HighTechPauper]

Awesome , I live on the isle of wight in england. Thanks for the links i might order both of them so ive got a spare. I need to get tinkering with it abit more so i familiarised myself with the components abit better

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They are pretty sturdy generally, not sure you would ever need a second one but maybe. First since they are fairly robust, I would look real good for some kind of short, but for Euro 4.71 from Banggood and it being literally the slow boat from China, you may want to get it ordered if you can isolate and decide that your 5v reg is not functioning as it will take a few weeks to get it.

I know this bird and the basics very well so dont hesitate to reach out if you have any questions. Good luck with the troubleshooting!

 

[HighTechPauper]

Older wizards were 3s

Just checked and the PDB in the wizard is 3-6s capable, so it must have been a weak ESC which does not surprise me as that is the only things I have had trouble with electrically.

 

[VirtueViolater]

Thinking back, it was the vtx and another component or two that wasn't 4s capable

 

[HighTechPauper]

Thinking back, it was the vtx and another component or two that wasn't 4s capable

Yeah, it was the VTX that they suggested moving from VBat to 12v because it COULD blow from a spike when 4s was plugged in. Many never had an issue, but a few did, hence the suggestion to move the VTX power off of VBat and onto the 12v regulator