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Problems with my eachine wizard x220 please help

One thing to keep careful of is the "C-rating" on your 4s battery. The higher rating you run, the more current is running through all circuit boards. They may not be able to handle that current load and that may be the reason why they got fried. It may have spiked the PDB, FC and the ESCs. Try a lower C-rated 4s battery.
 
One thing to keep careful of is the "C-rating" on your 4s battery. The higher rating you run, the more current is running through all circuit boards. They may not be able to handle that current load and that may be the reason why they got fried. It may have spiked the PDB, FC and the ESCs. Try a lower C-rated 4s battery.

I'm not sure about that logic Neo, The higher c rating on the battery doesn't change anything with regards to what the quad's electronics see. 14.8 volts nominal is still 14.8 volts nominal, higher c doesn't change that. Also the parallel resistance of the quad felt at any given point in time at the battery input leads has no bearing on the c rating of the battery itself either. Ohm's Law says I=E/R (Current is equal to Voltage divided by Resistance), the c rating doesn't change the voltage of the battery or the resistance of the quad.

If a proper short existed in the quad before the battery was plugged in that is what caused this problem, then any 4s/14.8v battery would have done the damage regardless of c rating. It is likely that he had a marginal ESC that was just below the frying point on 3s/11.1v but when it saw 4s/14.8v it pooped the bed. The cheap RacerStar ESC's they use in these things are some of the worst out there. But they are fairly cheap and even with a high failure rate, some of the time they do ok. Out of the 12 original ESC's in my 3 birds, 6 are still fine many months later, the other 6 have given up with 1 being a full on flame thrower. In one of my birds I put E-Max Bullet 20A, had 1 blow that I had to replace, since then no problems.

Eventually all the RacerStar will all be replaced with something better, until then I just fly em till they blow, and once I dont have 4 anymore of the same kind then the other 3 go in the trash and I will be done with RacerStar ESC's.
 
I'm not sure about that logic Neo, The higher c rating on the battery doesn't change anything with regards to what the quad's electronics see. 14.8 volts nominal is still 14.8 volts nominal, higher c doesn't change that. Also the parallel resistance of the quad felt at any given point in time at the battery input leads has no bearing on the c rating of the battery itself either. Ohm's Law says I=E/R (Current is equal to Voltage divided by Resistance), the c rating doesn't change the voltage of the battery or the resistance of the quad.

If a proper short existed in the quad before the battery was plugged in that is what caused this problem, then any 4s/14.8v battery would have done the damage regardless of c rating. It is likely that he had a marginal ESC that was just below the frying point on 3s/11.1v but when it saw 4s/14.8v it pooped the bed. The cheap RacerStar ESC's they use in these things are some of the worst out there. But they are fairly cheap and even with a high failure rate, some of the time they do ok. Out of the 12 original ESC's in my 3 birds, 6 are still fine many months later, the other 6 have given up with 1 being a full on flame thrower. In one of my birds I put E-Max Bullet 20A, had 1 blow that I had to replace, since then no problems.

Eventually all the RacerStar will all be replaced with something better, until then I just fly em till they blow, and once I dont have 4 anymore of the same kind then the other 3 go in the trash and I will be done with RacerStar ESC's.

You are correct on the voltage not changing within the battery, Randy. But what I was referring to was the maximum current draw or 'C-rating' on the battery. True there might have been a short somewhere, like a weak electronic component on any of the circuit boards going out, and that might have created a chain reaction to blow other components in all the baords' circuitry. But when you have a short on a circuit with a higher current draw, things tend to get hotter fast (I.e.. the ESC catching on fire). But I agree, getting higher rated/ quality ESCs will make a difference in reliability!

BTW, Here's a link on understanding LiPo battery C-rating:
Battery C Rating
 
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Max current draw can only happen when resistance changes, and goes down low enough for current to increase to that point, based on the voltage at the time left on the battery. That's all I'm saying and it still has nothing to do with the c rating of the battery. Not trying to nitpick here, but after 40+ years working with hardware, software, complex systems, and my advanced mil spec soldering training in the Marine Corp, I think I have a leg to stand on with the theory, and it just doesn't have anything to do with the maximum continuous, or burst current rating on a battery.
 
Ive got the new escs, waiting on PDB, recommendation for new FC?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 
Max current draw can only happen when resistance changes, and goes down low enough for current to increase to that point, based on the voltage at the time left on the battery. That's all I'm saying and it still has nothing to do with the c rating of the battery. Not trying to nitpick here, but after 40+ years working with hardware, software, complex systems, and my advanced mil spec soldering training in the Marine Corp, I think I have a leg to stand on with the theory, and it just doesn't have anything to do with the maximum continuous, or burst current rating on a battery.
Agreed, the c rating is the discharge capability of a battery
Checkout my newest video with the eachine wizard.
Hi QQ, just a heads up...... start your own thread to post your flights instead of posting them in other peoples threads, just etiquette
 
Yep you da man Randy. That all blew my head straight off my shoulders and I had that magical smoke coming out of my eyes. Nobody should doubt that experience.

Thanks Wayne,
You know because we have worked together in the past that I don't mean to flame anyone, and I just want to help. But it's important to make sure those just getting started, or trying to learn a bit about electronics, get well thought out and researched info.

And I meant absolutely no offense to @NeoCloneOne, perhaps I was wrong or missed something, it has happened before. But lively debate will never offend me and I could likely learn something. 40+ years doing something doesn't make you infallible or all knowing, and I know that.
 
Ive got the new escs, waiting on PDB, recommendation for new FC?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
I am not sure you will need all of that. I may have forgotten to check this with you. The PDB has 2 LED's on the one side that SHOULD light up when a battery is plugged in. One of them is for 5v regulator working and the other is for 12v regulator working. Do these 2 LED's light up when you plug the battery in?

I doubt that the FC is bad, you did say it worked when you plugged in the USB cable from your PC right?
 
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I am not sure you will need all of that. I may have forgotten to check this with you. The PDB has 2 LED's on the one side that SHOULD light up when a battery is plugged in. One of them is for 5v regulator working and the other is for 12v regulator working. Do these 2 LED's light up when you plug the battery in?

I doubt that the FC is bad, you did say it worked when you plugged in the USB cable from your PC right?
Thats right, when i plug into computer the lights come on. When plugging in battery tho i grt no lights :/

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 
Thats right, when i plug into computer the lights come on. When plugging in battery tho i grt no lights :/

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Not talking about the FC and the Red and/or Blue lights. If you look on the PDB on the left side when you plug a battery in you should see 2 RED LED's if 5v and 12v regulators are working AND they are not shorted somewhere. Picture of mine below and you can see the 2 Red LED's lit meaning my 5v and 12v are working and are NOT shorted anywhere.
 

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Not talking about the FC and the Red and/or Blue lights. If you look on the PDB on the left side when you plug a battery in you should see 2 RED LED's if 5v and 12v regulators are working AND they are not shorted somewhere. Picture of mine below and you can see the 2 Red LED's lit meaning my 5v and 12v are working and are NOT shorted anywhere.
I just checked and no lights at all when plugging battery in m8

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 
No lights is very strange on the PDB, since the copter is only using 5 volts and the 12 volts isn't even hooked to anything, it sounds like somehow both voltage regulators got fried or there is some other major problem with battery getting onto the PDB. You might try pulling your 5 volt wires off the PDB to see if it changes anything.
 
Thanks Wayne,
You know because we have worked together in the past that I don't mean to flame anyone, and I just want to help. But it's important to make sure those just getting started, or trying to learn a bit about electronics, get well thought out and researched info.

And I meant absolutely no offense to @NeoCloneOne, perhaps I was wrong or missed something, it has happened before. But lively debate will never offend me and I could likely learn something. 40+ years doing something doesn't make you infallible or all knowing, and I know that.
No problems, Randy. BTW, my real name is Royce. I, too, have 30+ years of working electronics tech experience, with an associate's degree. You do have a leg up on me with more experience, as also I am newer to the racing drone scene and I respect that. I always wanna try and help in a challenge of troubleshooting cause it's in my nature, with what I deal with work and all. So did he find out what the problem was?
 
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