Cerberus Trifecta - Cerb v2 newbe build

[Futuramille]

My dream is to build a small (packback stack) of Flynocerous Cerberus FPV fliers. I'm not necessarily a quad fan as I am an FPV flying fan and I'm a new one at that. I spent a grand or so on RISE fliers for indoors and out but so much was missing. Once I realized my RC dreams had come true in my lifetime (52ish) I was an instant addict but I'm not really a collector. I want the best up front and then stay there. So I decided on theflynoguys.com (I'm a user not a sales guy).

I bought my first one straight up... I'm busy and only had time for another toy till I got hook on well made quads. I bought the Cerberus Mini. I wasn't yet aware I needed a full set of Cerbs but I was learning. I got a new Tx and some fatsharks and waited.
Cerberus Mini – Flynoceros
once it arrived I've been flying like a nut in my yard... at least 4 batteries a day! Josh Ingram is an amazing man! BNF build/tune was perfect! flew my *** off for the last few months... but I got in a BIG field and realized the short comings of a 3" real fast.

My son builds and races drift cars. Last year, race drones were chasing/filming the drift car runs. I wanted to do that REAL bad (hook line and sinker) and ($$$ later) now I figure a 5" would do better at chasing race cars on a speedway. I also want a backpack with three "matching" Cerberus drones in three sizes down the back so last week I also ordered a BNF version of the Cerberus Micro. Josh and team are working on that.
Cerberus Micro – Flynoceros
so that's the back story. I decided to build the 5" myself... I got all the bits from theflynoguys in the full kit including the "flyno frame" upgrade.

Heres my build of the big brother in this trifecta. I'll include bits about the other two as I learn more I'm sure. I invite all comments, questions etc. please remember, this is my first quad build.
Cerberus V2 – Flynoceros
Cerberus V2 Frame
RunCam Swift 2 - 2.3mm lens
TBS Unify Pro "Race" VTX
Furious FPV Radiance FC - Dshot ready - 12V
Electrifly RC 30A ESC - Dshot ready
Emax RS Special Edition - RS2306 - 2400KV
FRSKY XSR

 

[Futuramille]

I'm currently waiting on a set of matching red esc protectors so I can't start any real soldering. I want to work from the motors in.
I started by laying everything out and watching a ton of youtube regarding each element. There is surprisingly little online regarding the Radiance Dshot FC. my work bench is rather central in the house. I work from home doing computer s**t for a global retail company so I walk by the bench and ponder this thing often through a given day.

 

[Futuramille]

So now that I've addressed the different bits going into this, I'll mention my first challenge. The Cerberus is kinda tight at any size. the hood is cool and different (yes there are camera mounts available), the cut of the frame and arms is "elegant" and the finish on the cf is perfect but... its tight!
One thing I could do was figure the hood. this is not a Cerberus add but the hood is easily detached but all the elements attached to the hood (rx & VTS) need to be snug and detachable.
So I started test fitting... I quickly/sadly learned that the cool little red hood part in the back with the antenna mount wasn't going to work with the Unify pro vtx. the kit came with several cf vtx antenna mount options, just could not use the red 3D printed one ) :

I could also tell this was going to be tight straight off. the vtx in my mini gets hot quick (like after digging it from a trees grasp, 7- 10min) and I'm concerned about heat build up.

 

[Futuramille]

heres my current solution...
first off, the main/top hood has two perfect holes for the RX antenna, so that spot is designated.
I needed the plug to be accessable so I turned the rx over, bent the antenna back over the rx and out the two holes. I Secured it with a couple layers of double sided3m tape that also leveled and positioned it. apply ziptie.

 

[Futuramille]

Here's my first question, these antenna stick out the top. I added these two plastic tubes for them to go through but that's super vulnerable when upside-down in the dirt.
I understand the frequency is determined by the amount of un-insulated antenna but does shrink-wrap count as insulation? can I cover these with something more substantial without losing range?

 

[VirtueViolater]

The loss is very sleight, they wont last without some protection
I would let the tubes cover them
EDIT: I've had the best luck with wire straps and heat shrink. The tubes don't seem to hold up

 

[Futuramille]

here's what i redid twice on my mini. the antennas came (bnf) covered with heatshink like this but they weren't heat shrunk together so could get into the props. thats impossible now with the additional heat shrink... point being thoigh.. look how much raw antenna is hanging out. I've had no issues yet!

 

[VirtueViolater]

I do the same thing but point them inward

 

[Futuramille]

thanks virtue, you validate my suspicions. these need... MORE and hopefully ill find something fitting.

I'm always looking through my old boxes of RC helicopter parts for solutions. the "spare" 3m screw nut and bolt collection is coming in handy. the electronics and especially the programming involved is going to be all new to me. thats priceless

 

[Futuramille]

as for crossing those antenna a bit, i read that pair have better channel control (xm+ rx) if crossed so... is this a viable notion?

 

[VirtueViolater]

as for crossing those antenna a bit, i read that pair have better channel control (xm+ rx) if crossed so... is this a viable notion?

I personally haven't seen anything on it but who knows?

 

[VirtueViolater]

I think having them as close to 90 deg as possible is crucial to diversity

 

[Futuramille]

isn't this supposed to be 32mm and change for 2.4ghz?

 

[Futuramille]

i read allot of hoopla but when it comes from the package this way... I'm gonna leave it that way... covered in something better.
thanks for that feedback guys!

 

[Futuramille]

So next bit was the VTX. I wanted some air to get around it at least so I kept the pad small (it was thick as s**t though and I'm concerned about dirt and longevity). the primary concerns were keeping the buttons on both boards clear of each other while still keeping the plugs clear/ available

 

[Futuramille]

... constantly testing for fit back on the frame through the process. its close!

 

[Futuramille]

next... you see what my new challenge was... I found those small o rings to "soft mount" the FC in a bag of helicopter mainblade hubs. I got exactly 4 small thinner ones (hornet 2) and four thicker ones (shogun v2) and quit digging.
next great conversation is yalls take on "soft mounting". I haven't locktighted those top stack nuts so this is still all retrofit.

(I also did the motors but we'll come to that)

what do ya'll do in this regard?

 

[Futuramille]

heres a old trick I use and this 3D printed stuff is holding to it rather well. you can secure things, fill gaps or whatever and the more sun it gets the more secure it gets.
I'm a fly fisherman and tie my own flies. this stuff is awesome for making things more durable in water so I'll try it here. We'll see

 

[theGreenOrange]

I softmount as much as possible, especially FC and motors.

 

[Futuramille]

what do you softmount with green? do these "look" sufficient?