Capacitor installation

psybersapien · Aug 24, 2023

Will a capacitor installed on the battery wires to a 4-in-1 ESC work as expected (picture below)?
I can't use the typical install locations on the solder pads or on a XT60 WaFL board.

Dan · Aug 26, 2023

That would, of course, be better that no capacitor and it should work OK if you locate it as close to the ESC as possible.

Kilrah · Aug 27, 2023

Assuming it's actually soldered to the wires and not just poked in of course

psybersapien · Aug 28, 2023

Kilrah said:
Assuming it's actually soldered to the wires and not just poked in of course

I'm secretly hoping your emoji was because you're kidding.

May be needless to say but it's metal on metal so I didn't think I needed the solder joint.

psybersapien · Aug 28, 2023

Dan said:
That would, of course, be better that no capacitor and it should work OK if you locate it as close to the ESC as possible.

Understood. I'm rethinking the capacitor installation location after I've been able to put together a prototype with all the main parts I plan to use in the build. But it's good to know this approach is feasible. Not optimal but, as you say, better than nothing.

Kilrah · Aug 28, 2023

psybersapien said:
May be needless to say but it's metal on metal so I didn't think I needed the solder joint.

Moving metal on moving metal, so that's just going to cause poor/intermittent contact.
And the whole purpose for the cap is to smooth out high current spikes, so for it to be of any use the connection needs to be as good and low resistance as possible.

psybersapien · Aug 29, 2023

Kilrah said:
Moving metal on moving metal, so that's just going to cause poor/intermittent contact.
And the whole purpose for the cap is to smooth out high current spikes, so for it to be of any use the connection needs to be as good and low resistance as possible.

Good to know!
I'll find a way to solder the capacitor directly to the ESC power pads.
Appreciate the feedback!

warriorboxerdog1 · Sep 8, 2023

If you had to I would think you could strip like a 3/4 inch off the battery leads. Solder the cap then use heat shrink to insulate the connection so it doesn't short out and leave enough wire exposed to solder to the esc. It would move the cap back some, still have a good connection.

psybersapien · Sep 8, 2023

warriorboxerdog1 said:
If you had to I would think you could strip like a 3/4 inch off the battery leads. Solder the cap then use heat shrink to insulate the connection so it doesn't short out and leave enough wire exposed to solder to the esc. It would move the cap back some, still have a good connection.

I was building a Geprc Cinelog35 V2 and it didn't seem I could fit the right size capacitor in the area they gave in the frame.
So I was trying to think of alternatives.
As it turns out, there is a small "notch" in the stack area where, if I solder the cap to the power pads on the AIO I have, the cap will just fit. Not perfect but as good as I would expect.
Maybe the frame designers considered this? I don't know because the frame came with basically no assembly instructions.
And I haven't seen a pre-built Cinelog35 up close and personal to take notes.

I can provide a pic if you're interested. Otherwise, it may not be obvious with a simple picture and I'd rather not take it apart. Yet

. I'm sure I will have to at some point.