Would this frame fit.

[HighTechPauper]

And you only need to strip about a half inch of insulation off, and mesh the wires up fairly close to the insulation, if the insulation shrinks back any when you solder just make sure your heat shrink goes at least a 1/4 inch onto the insulation on each side.

 

[broncosdad1317]

Man your awesome. Thank you so much for passing this knowledge on to me my friend. I will use it true Saved my tushy and my quad a lot of pain haha. Thanks again man I’ll most deff do this

 

[HighTechPauper]

Your very welcome brother, fly hard!

 

[broncosdad1317]

Your very welcome brother, fly hard!

After more research I found out that my camera won’t be able to mount on that frame for I have a traditional shaped go pro style camera as well as I don’t want my fpv camera cage to made from thin carbon fiber. I trust metal more so I’m gonna do this one I think. One question I have a 220mm and this comes in 200mm and 230mm. Which one you think I’d feel more like what I got and am used to at 220mm also if I got the 200mm would I maybe not need to enlomgate the motor wires from my 220 or is it not a big difference. Was thinking doing the 230.

 

[HighTechPauper]

There is no difference in feel in that mm range, they all fly pretty much the same, and you may have enough motor wire length with the 220. I fly the TBS Oblivion and other 220mm quads for the most part and each feels very similar, the differences are more about the actual motors and props than anything else. Whatever you put into the air, you adjust to it pretty quickly in my experience if you try to get the feel for it before you go all out. I don't think the 230 gets you anything, after all 10mm is only .39 (point 39) inches. IMHO

 

[broncosdad1317]

There is no difference in feel in that mm range, they all fly pretty much the same, and you may have enough motor wire length with the 220. I fly the TBS Oblivion and other 220mm quads for the most part and each feels very similar, the differences are more about the actual motors and props than anything else. Whatever you put into the air, you adjust to it pretty quickly in my experience if you try to get the feel for it before you go all out. I don't think the 230 gets you anything, after all 10mm is only .39 (point 39) inches. IMHO

Word thanks man. Yeah I just think I need more motor wire cuz the frame I’m getting has the arms on top plate

 

[HighTechPauper]

You may, I don’t know what you will find, don’t forget that board and be mounted at the top and the FC on the bottom, if it ends up helping, you never know lol

 

[broncosdad1317]

You may, I don’t know what you will find, don’t forget that board and be mounted at the top and the FC on the bottom, if it ends up helping, you never know lol

Okay and what board goes where. You mean pdb goes under the fc or are you talking about my specific frame?!

 

[HighTechPauper]

Not talking about your specific frame, and you have NO PDB as far as I can see. You have 3 boards in that stack it looks, 4in1 ESC at the bottom, FC in the middle and vTX on top. What do you think is the PDB?

Also I am just saying they don’t have to be stacked in that order. For all I know instead of building off the bottom plate like most, this thing could hang from the top plate, so the ESC could be closest to the arms and maybe your existing motor wires would be long enough. Even if the stack builds off the bottom plate, the ESC could be mounted at the top so it is an inch closer to the arms. The only thing that matters is the orientation of the FC and the setting for it in BF

 

[broncosdad1317]

Not talking about your specific frame, and you have NO PDB as far as I can see. You have 3 boards in that stack it looks, 4in1 ESC at the bottom, FC in the middle and vTX on top. What do you think is the PDB?

Also I am just saying they don’t have to be stacked in that order. For all I know instead of building off the bottom plate like most, this thing could hang from the top plate, so the ESC could be closest to the arms and maybe your existing motor wires would be long enough. Even if the stack builds off the bottom plate, the ESC could be mounted at the top so it is an inch closer to the arms. The only thing that matters is the orientation of the FC and the setting for it in BF

Oh okay yeah I’ll check that out. The betaflight settings aren’t too hard plus yeah the pdb is in the 4 in 1 right

 

[broncosdad1317]

Here is a good vid that covers the important parts, good and bad that you want to look out for, the only change I would make is do EVERYTHING with 63/37 Eutectic solder, unlike 60/40 it has no "plastic" state so it is almost impossible to get a cold solder joint. But if all you have is 60/40 that is fine, just pay extra attention to how full of solder, and how shiny the joint. I would also likely double heat shrink if I can and don't forget, the wire will not be malleable near the joint and to bend it there will weaken it significantly so you may need to trim some wire to get your joint closer to the motor so that you have the flexibility to form it near the ESC. Use the same gauge and similar strand size as the the motor already has. It ain't the prettiest but the practice is sound, and with care you can make it pretty nice, and you don't have many choices if you want to reuse those motors. This vid is not about quad motor wires, but the principal is the same regardless.

Is this the solder I should get my friend

 

[broncosdad1317]

Here is a good vid that covers the important parts, good and bad that you want to look out for, the only change I would make is do EVERYTHING with 63/37 Eutectic solder, unlike 60/40 it has no "plastic" state so it is almost impossible to get a cold solder joint. But if all you have is 60/40 that is fine, just pay extra attention to how full of solder, and how shiny the joint. I would also likely double heat shrink if I can and don't forget, the wire will not be malleable near the joint and to bend it there will weaken it significantly so you may need to trim some wire to get your joint closer to the motor so that you have the flexibility to form it near the ESC. Use the same gauge and similar strand size as the the motor already has. It ain't the prettiest but the practice is sound, and with care you can make it pretty nice, and you don't have many choices if you want to reuse those motors. This vid is not about quad motor wires, but the principal is the same regardless.

 

[HighTechPauper]

That looks fine, keep in mind that solder is a consumable friend for your iron. The way you keep your tip nice and always performing its best, is to keep a nice big ball of solder on it when you are not using it. Add an inch or so every 5 minutes (fresh solder and rosin will help keep the heat from attacking the cladding on your nice shiny tip) and make sure the sponge (for thermal shocking the tip, and cleaning off old solder with a quick swipe back and forth) is a cellulose sponge. When the iron heats up and accepts solder, keep the whole shiny area reflowed often with fresh solder to keep the tinning fresh, and load it up with as big a ball as you can and let it cool and harden before you try to wire brush the burned rosin and flux off the iron end, it will protect the cladding on your tip if it is covered in hard solder when you brush it. You don't have to clean off the old burned on stuff, but I like to every so often but NEVER with an unprotected tip.

Hope this make sense.