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Would this frame fit.

broncosdad1317

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#1
Will this 5 inch Armattan rooster frame fit my guts in my 220mm quad I have also included in pictures says 230mm from motor to motor. Does that mean I just get longer motor wires or with the lower body of the new frame be the diff I’d need and I wouldn’t need new wires
 

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broncosdad1317

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#3
Dang that sucks man. Okay thank you though :) is there a way I can make it smaller. The stack. Is the pdb just for the led lights and buzzer. I could take that out is there options I have or is it a strait up no go??
 

HighTechPauper

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#4
The existing stack probably won't work as near as I can tell from the pictures and description. There is no PDB that I see in this quad and it looks like the XT60 may go straight to the 4in1 ESC and that board makes the 5v to run the FC and possibly 9v or 12v if it is needed for the vTX or FPV camera. You could get/make custom arrangements to slam it pretty low (short standoffs and/or just nylon washers on long nylon screws) and MAYBE squeeze it in but there is so much to consider between shorting to the carbon, airflow/shorting between boards, and that 3rd board (vTX) being in the stack doesn't help any. I am assuming you broke the Arris frame and wanted something you think is sturdier? I can tell you this, I have broken an arm on my Rooster just planting in very soft ground from 10 feet at the wrong angle I guess, and destroyed the vTX antenna a couple time now in minor crashes, I am not convinced it will be so indestructible for me. On the other hand I have yet to completely break anything on my Eachine Wizard X220 frames and they have been through a ton more abuse... go figure?!?
 

broncosdad1317

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#5
The existing stack probably won't work as near as I can tell from the pictures and description. There is no PDB that I see in this quad and it looks like the XT60 may go straight to the 4in1 ESC and that board makes the 5v to run the FC and possibly 9v or 12v if it is needed for the vTX or FPV camera. You could get/make custom arrangements to slam it pretty low (short standoffs and/or just nylon washers on long nylon screws) and MAYBE squeeze it in but there is so much to consider between shorting to the carbon, airflow/shorting between boards, and that 3rd board (vTX) being in the stack doesn't help any. I am assuming you broke the Arris frame and wanted something you think is sturdier? I can tell you this, I have broken an arm on my Rooster just planting in very soft ground from 10 feet at the wrong angle I guess, and destroyed the vTX antenna a couple time now in minor crashes, I am not convinced it will be so indestructible for me. On the other hand I have yet to completely break anything on my Eachine Wizard X220 frames and they have been through a ton more abuse... go figure?!?
Word thanks man. Yeah i decided cuz it won’t fit I’m gonna go wth the ummagawd remix. I’m gonna take the vtx off and mount it like this one is as well as in solder my power leads and put longer one on but I think it will work what’s your thought friend
 

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HighTechPauper

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#6
With a little rework and fiddling around, I think you could get it to fit into either of those frames, after all, where there is a will there's a way! The reason I said it wouldn't fit the rooster is I thought you were trying to do a guts only swap with no rework involved. I wasn't sure what your soldering experience was and the specifics can be a pain to sort through. For instance, in the last rooster carnage the sma got torn off the end of the coax and the vTX is a soldered on antenna Aomway (no u.fl or mmcx connector), so time for it to go. I have a spare Tramp I am putting in, but exact placement is being troublesome. I can jam it in the back where the old one was, but the sharp S curve in the coax to allow that will reduce my 5.8 video out (high frequency RF doesn't like sharp bends in its waveguide) but that is the way Armattan built the BNF I bought and I was never happy with the video performance. I am an old Jar Head and got MilSpec trained on soldering in the Corp, and I have worked with complex systems and software for 35+ years, so I can build but I could not fly, so I prefered to spend more time in the beginning learning to fly than building, after all you get plenty of practice just fixing after crashes. So I got a bunch of ARF/BNF birds to get me in the air asap, but no builder does things the way I would and I am constantly making small changes to increase durability and performance. I am just too picky and that makes it take a while before I am happy with things.

I think you will do fine fitting those components into a new frame, it may take some time, but you will get it no doubt.

Randy
 

broncosdad1317

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#7
With a little rework and fiddling around, I think you could get it to fit into either of those frames, after all, where there is a will there's a way! The reason I said it wouldn't fit the rooster is I thought you were trying to do a guts only swap with no rework involved. I wasn't sure what your soldering experience was and the specifics can be a pain to sort through. For instance, in the last rooster carnage the sma got torn off the end of the coax and the vTX is a soldered on antenna Aomway (no u.fl or mmcx connector), so time for it to go. I have a spare Tramp I am putting in, but exact placement is being troublesome. I can jam it in the back where the old one was, but the sharp S curve in the coax to allow that will reduce my 5.8 video out (high frequency RF doesn't like sharp bends in its waveguide) but that is the way Armattan built the BNF I bought and I was never happy with the video performance. I am an old Jar Head and got MilSpec trained on soldering in the Corp, and I have worked with complex systems and software for 35+ years, so I can build but I could not fly, so I prefered to spend more time in the beginning learning to fly than building, after all you get plenty of practice just fixing after crashes. So I got a bunch of ARF/BNF birds to get me in the air asap, but no builder does things the way I would and I am constantly making small changes to increase durability and performance. I am just too picky and that makes it take a while before I am happy with things.

I think you will do fine fitting those components into a new frame, it may take some time, but you will get it no doubt.

Randy
Thanks man sounds like you know your stuff yeah I am gonn go with the remix and I’ll note that info you shared while fitting the stack. If I unmount my vtx from the stack can I zip tie it to the frame and if so is there supposed to be a space between the vtx and the frame because of heat it produces ?? In the picture dude minted his on the back of the bottom plate flat on the frame. My soldering isn’t good but will be practicing a lot before I’d need to do this
 

HighTechPauper

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#8
You absolutely can mount it there, heat is always an issue for a vTX but they are pretty sturdy and once you are armed and props spinning it will cool down fast. Just try to consider isolating it with some electrical tape or heat shrink, dont worry about trapping heat, just preventing shorting against carbon or other things is all that is needed.
 

broncosdad1317

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#9
You absolutely can mount it there, heat is always an issue for a vTX but they are pretty sturdy and once you are armed and props spinning it will cool down fast. Just try to consider isolating it with some electrical tape or heat shrink, dont worry about trapping heat, just preventing shorting against carbon or other things is all that is needed.
So if I say out three layers thick of electrical tape under it that should Safice and then because my VTX Has mounting holes in each corner to put on the steps I’m just going to zip tie it from them corner holes right to the frame over the top of the electrical tape so it doesn’t short does that sound right also where it does the VTX go to the coacts cable part for the antenna it looks like it comes out the back but I can’t see the frame at the right angle enough to see how that happens
 
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HighTechPauper

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#10
2 layers of electrical tape is fine, 3 is a bit overkill but it wont hurt. Not exactly sure what u r asking about the vTX pigtail, but some things just need to be figured out when the time comes, but your plan sounds fine to me. Good luck and if you think I can help in any way, please dont hesitate to ask.
 
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broncosdad1317

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#14
You too, I am heading to fly now, great weather is finally here! :)
Same here except I’m not flying busy ass life really cuts into my flying time man. I’m sad about it and just wanna get out there and get some practice in with my goggles for the first time with ample room But i hope you have fun friend. I wanna see some footage
 

broncosdad1317

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#16
You too, I am heading to fly now, great weather is finally here! :)
Hey so when I get this frame it looks like my motor wires aren’t long enough. What do I do with that problem. Or can I just not do it. Once ther wired and cut to length for this frame I have that’s it right. Would I need to purchase new set of motors :(
 

HighTechPauper

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#18
You really have 2 choices as far as I know...

Lap flow like wires onto the ends and heat shrink them to make longer. Many do this, and in the beginning of 4in1 ESC’s many motor wires were not long enough making this mandatory, fortunately now most motor manufacturers make them longer and I still leave as much as possible for future servicing.

Buy new motors.

You could also move to on the arm individual ESC’s but that would mean adding a PDB and scrapping the 4in1 for this rebuild.
 

broncosdad1317

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#19
You really have 2 choices as far as I know...

Lap flow like wires onto the ends and heat shrink them to make longer. Many do this, and in the beginning of 4in1 ESC’s many motor wires were not long enough making this mandatory, fortunately now most motor manufacturers make them longer and I still leave as much as possible for future servicing.

Buy new motors.

You could also move to on the arm individual ESC’s but that would mean adding a PDB and scrapping the 4in1 for this rebuild.
For sure. Well he designed this frame to run a 4-1. It can run other but it was designed for a 4-1 and it just so happens I have one in my current build and would love to transfer it to a better home. So this lapping method is it solid. Like are there more of a chance to short or have fires or problems. Also what wires do I get
 
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HighTechPauper

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#20
Here is a good vid that covers the important parts, good and bad that you want to look out for, the only change I would make is do EVERYTHING with 63/37 Eutectic solder, unlike 60/40 it has no "plastic" state so it is almost impossible to get a cold solder joint. But if all you have is 60/40 that is fine, just pay extra attention to how full of solder, and how shiny the joint. I would also likely double heat shrink if I can and don't forget, the wire will not be malleable near the joint and to bend it there will weaken it significantly so you may need to trim some wire to get your joint closer to the motor so that you have the flexibility to form it near the ESC. Use the same gauge and similar strand size as the the motor already has. It ain't the prettiest but the practice is sound, and with care you can make it pretty nice, and you don't have many choices if you want to reuse those motors. This vid is not about quad motor wires, but the principal is the same regardless.

 

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