Sharing - Third 3" re-build

[Futuramille]

This Flynoceros Cerberus 3" is my first Flyno ship and first "real" quad. Had some RISE stuff before that to learn on but this little guy tought Nate and I how to really fly FPV.
After a buttload of crashes, the frame is still perfectly fine. I've just been replacing the footies on the arms.
I really like how the Brother Motors Tornado 1407 3600KV performed in the past.
I also love Runcam Swift 2 cameras. Though big for this little guy, it's a great fit and though this is new, it's the same that I've been using.
the first stack was raceflight and that lasted through two sets of motors (bent bells made me rebuild). This time I went with the same stack I have and love in my 2" Cerberus.. HGLRC F420.
The VTX is big but fits: TBS Unify Pro 5G8 HV. RX is my goto FrSky XM+... & some kinda little beeper I found in the spare bits drawer.
All the electronics are new accept the RX which saves me time in binding and all that with BF.
Running BF 3.5.7
4S 850mah Tattu
Race Craft props.
Here goes.. I hope someone enjoys the build thread as much as I did. Feel free to comment, question and criticize as you find! ?

 

[Futuramille]

I went with 3M through bolts and put the plastic stack spacers in the bits drawer. I want this to be another "tank" build and hate snapping off those little plastic spacers.
First things first.. get the power wires into the 4in1. This is a 20X20 stack. These are 16 gauge wires with an XT60 plug.

 

[Futuramille]

For looks, I tinned shiney balls on the top of the motor pads

I really like the clean look of bottom mounted motor wires.
I already had the paracord motor wire covers from my second rebuild so slid those on the new motors, flipped the board over and soldered them in place on the bottom.
You gotta be mindfull of the angle of the wires to the pads and consider the room needed for the spacer.

 

[Futuramille]

So far so good...

 

[Futuramille]

I re-used the soft mount pads for the motors cause they were a PITA to make the first time and seem fine.

Got the motors bolted on (I use 4 bolts per motor... always). I don't use thread lock anywhere on a quad.. ever. Yes those are new footies... printed them myself ?

 

[Futuramille]

Next was ... Where to put the 1000ųF capacitor. This will be running 4S.
there is zero room inside the cage. The battery cable goes out the back so I just hung it out the side with enough wire to put it out on the arm or along the side of the stack (TBD). I added shrink wrap to the tips and used every bit of wire they gave me.

I also temporarily nutted the 4in1 down snug but later these are replaced with two O-rings ....and trimmed the battery strap to fit and got it in.

edit... more tomorrow! ?

 

[Jtrjr]

Looking really good, Futura!!!

 

[Wayno52]

Looks sweet JJ. I have also seen some new builds with cap at the xt60 end and shrink wrapped.

 

[Wayno52]

Pricey but can buy ready to go
[AU$11.49 22% OFF]HGLRC 35V 1000uF Filter Capacitor XT60 14AWG 100mm Cable Wire for RC Drone FPV Racing RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and Robot on banggood.com

https://banggood.app.link/aMJDdmQ2Y3

 

[Futuramille]

Looks sweet JJ. I have also seen some new builds with cap at the xt60 end and shrink wrapped.

Wayno, Thanks for the input! I too like having the capacitor on the plug but in this case.. with bottom mounted battery and the plug flagging out the back, I think the battery plug wire needs to be streamlined.

 

[Futuramille]

Next is prepping the Flight Controller. Its F4, standard OSD, I'm gona try to get smart audio going for camera control, rssi, beeper, sbus and this unit makes it pretty easy. everything is along the outside edge but only one Bat/VBat/full power pad. I'll have three wires going there. Camera power and Vbat + VTX. RX gets 5v treatment. I tinned the pads and got the camera and VTX wires on and routed. Used the same power and ground pads to cut down on video noise.

...got the RX wired but later had to replace those big +/- wires with 20guage. No issues.

 

[Futuramille]

I wired in the beeper and slid it home on top of double O-ring spacers.. its dying for space and this gave me .5mm more than a nut and O-ring. I like to at least try to "soft mount" the FC. it comes with nice gummy spacers but they are for 2mm through bolts.. so..
Pre-fit everything first and then started making it perminant.

I slid another O-ring on top, trimmed a RDQ mounting plate to fit around the plugs, flipped the RX over on top and tacked it down with 3M double sided tape.

 

[HighTechPauper]

Hey bro, just so others are not confused, Smart Audio is not for camera control, it is one type of vTX control, and of course with a capacitor mod can also allow audio in from a mic.

 

[Futuramille]

Hey bro, just so others are not confused, Smart Audio is not for camera control, it is one type of vTX control, and of course with a capacitor mod can also allow audio in from a mic.

lol! and that's why we love you HTP! Well it's on TX6 I think so may be good for something. the VTX is hanging off TX3 in Hope's of VTX control. I haven't set up anything but Arming switch and flew it. Got more to do this weekend for bells and whistles. I'll exhaust youtube and still probably call you. ?

 

[HighTechPauper]

Well fear not bud, it is possible that the FC is set up for Camera Control, it doesn't always work, but sometimes it does. Often lately you may see multiple pads, usually labeled CS and CC. CS is for the Camera video Signal, and the CC (Camera Control) goes to the OSD pin where the "5 button joystick" could get plugged in on the camera. If it works correctly I think it gives access to the "advanced" camera setting that usually you need to plug the joystick in to get to.

 

[Futuramille]

moving right along now.. getting stuff tucked up n in. decided to side mount the capacitor. Will use UV glue to tack it to the side of the stack. Fit the Runcam Swift 2 in place.


Treated the RX Antenna and 3M taped the VTX under the cage hood.

 

[Futuramille]

Boom!! ?

 

[Jtrjr]

Nice to see a great build thread again! Great job!

 

[Futuramille]

Of course I plugged it in with a smoke stopper after adding each bit so no glorious "hold your breath" moment at the end. that was saved for turning on the monitor and seeing video picture with full OSD. No runs, no drips, no errors.

 

[Futuramille]

Nice to see a great build thread again! Great job!

Thank you sir! It's fun and hopefully helps someone out.