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Upaginit

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Bought a eachine wizard, got bold and crashed already , battery slid back and broke off antenna, and the threaded piece it screws onto. Frame ok, since you can't power up without antenna on, did this fry the fpv board at the antenna? What parts do I need to fix this? No hobby shops close to get parts, and I want to order everything I need to get back to flying, with out getting one piece in and finding out I need something else also..
 

theGreenOrange

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Did the part that broke have a threaded connection on both sides? Or was it a pigtail? You either need an RP-SMA pigtail, or 90degree RP-SMA bulkhead connector. I like the Aomway antennas for a good but not too expensive option. Be sure to get RP-SMA.
 
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PhoenixFord

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did this fry the fpv board at the antenna?..

Do the repairs as theGreenOrange suggested. Then just give it a "Smoke-Test". Plug her in and see what happens. I would also suggest a range test before actually flying. Set your model on the ground and walk some distance, testing the goggles along the way.
 

Upaginit

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Did the part that broke have a threaded connection on both sides? Or was it a pigtail? You either need an RP-SMA pigtail, or 90degree RP-SMA bulkhead connector. I like the Aomway antennas for a good but not too expensive option. Be sure to get RP-SMA.
It isn't threaded on both sides, the 90 deg fitting is saughtered to transmitter, I'm thinking about going ahead and upgrading the transmitter to a ts5828 eachine?
 

theGreenOrange

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It most likely isn't soldered, it has a U.FL connector with a pigtail. Just get a new pigtail, cut the glue off the old tiny U.FL connector and pull it off (it is a friction mount). If you are going to upgrade, in my opinion you should go big and get a Tramp HV.
 

Upaginit

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It's soldered, trying to post a pick, if I upgrade to that what does that consist of?
 

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theGreenOrange

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Oh, sorry I thought it had a pigtail. It is an adjustable power VTX with some fancy features for organized races (race wand, pit mode, etc). Mostly I like it for the selectable power output (25, 200, 350, and 600mW), and simple single button config with no dip switches.
 

Upaginit

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Why would you want to adjust that, I assumed the higher the further it transmits, battery consumption? I don't want to do any soldering on this tiny stuff, for now anyway,I'd rather just use plug in and go components for now, but whatever I gotta do I guess..
 

theGreenOrange

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If you are racing with other people, 600mW will be too much power and you will probably mess up everyone else's signal on the other channels.
 

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