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Is all this OK?

Also I am not sure but I think the 2205 2600kv motors may be a lot more muscle than you need and may be battery killers. You may want to consider 2205 2300kv's instead.
But as I said I am not sure... @VirtueViolater and @theGreenOrange, can you chime in on this one?
 
The Eachine camera is ok, I actually prefer the 2.8 lens to the 2.5 on my RunCam Splits, I even like it better for flying at night under the lights in the parking lot than the RunCams but I'm not sure exactly why I like it better. Your first race quad will likely get broken a lot, and it is unadvisable, in my opinion and others, to spend too much on the parts because it could get broken and need replacing. Better to learn on less expensive stuff, once you are not constantly crashing it makes sense to get some better gear. You can get a Foxeer model for near that price though.
The difference between 600tvl and 700tvl is almost indistinguishable.

Foxeer XAT600M HS1177 600TVL CCD 2.8MM IR Mini FPV Camera IR Blocked 5-22v with Bracket For RC Drone
 

Yes that will work, but according to the review I looked at it can take 6 AA batteries. I do not have a QX7 so I can't be sure what the right answer is here. Double A batteries could get used up pretty quick and that could get expensive fast. It could be better to get some double A rechargable batteries and maybe have a spare set so you don't die in the field but I'm not sure. They also have aftermarket lipos but I don't know what you may have to modify to use one, or to use the NiMH you were looking at. You may want to look at some reviews on youtube of it to see what they say.
 
I really don't know what to say about the Holybro Kakute F4 board...
F4 FC's are pretty state of the art and I know some are having trouble with them. You may find it better to go with an F3 AIO (plus BEC since your PDB has none).
Again I would look to @VirtueViolater or @theGreenOrange to help with a choice on this
 
Was also a bit surprised to see the QX7 with Mode 2 (throttle on left stick), I thought all you Aussie's ran Mode 1 for some reason.
 

That may be good, Racerstar does some funny stuff, for instance I see that board comes with some kind of clear heat shrink around the board, same with the ESC's I got from them a while back. How are you supposed to solder to the board? Strange people those Racerstar folks, most companies send the unshrunk sleeve so you can shrink it down after you do your soldering, not Racerstar and nobody knows why they do this.
 
If that's the only issue you can see with this, it's no issue. I have a big kit of heatshrink, I can cut it and re do it. Unless you know of a cheaper option
 
@Solly747400, Sorry buddy, it's getting late, I'm tired, and I think I copied the wrong links for some of those FC options above. I can only vouch for the last 2 because that is what is in my junk. I do know that those are cheap and pretty bullet proof, and of course I know them like the back of my hand so I can advise on assembly and operation.
 
But I forgot to mention, that one does not have an OSD, I simply have my Taranis set up with a timer and a routine to check VBat that is read out to me. So when my timer goes off, I punch the throttle to see if it is calling VBat at 14.2 volts, I bring her in for a landing shortly after that. OSD is probably nice, but people got by for many years without it as they are somewhat new, and that is another reason to go with FrSky Taranis because of the programming capability and voice prompts.
 

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