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help needed - drone parts

korpaczov

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Hey guys so I am about to start building my first drone.. I have no experience at all so if anyone could have a look at the list of parts and let me know if It is gonna work together that would be much appreciated.
Fatshark HDO 2 OLED FPV Goggles
Frsky Taranis Q X7S Transmitter 2.4Ghz EU Firmware
TBS Source One Frame Kit 5" V3
T-Motor F60 Pro II Motor 2700KV
HQProp DP5X4.3X3V1S
Matek F722-SE AIO Flight Controller
Hobbywing X-Rotor Micro 60A 4 IN 1 Esc DShot 1200
video transmitter TBS Unify Pro HV Race 5.8ghz SMA
LUMENIER AXII 2 5.8GHz Antenna (RHCP) (2 Pcs)
RapidFire ImmersionRC
Lumenier AXII Patch Antenna 5.8GHz RHCP
Runcam Phoenix FPV Camera


+ I have no clue what battery I should buy.
Also, I thought about
Hobbywing XRotor Micro 60A 4in1 ESC&FC F4 G3 Combo
but I am not sure what set will be better.

If there is anything missing in this set or something unnecessary please let me know
 

HighTechPauper

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Those parts are pretty much top of the line, they will get destroyed since you haven't flown yet, it takes some time and practice to not bash into everything including the ground, but it's your money.

The all HobbyWing stack will be even more plug and play than mixing the Mateck FC and HobbyWing ESC, but they will both work. Some will say they have had problems with HobbyWing stacks or Matek boards, but many many others love them and have no issue. There is no such thing as guaranteed out of the box, or a completely bulletproof part or build, so go with any of these and feel fairly certain you will get few or no bad parts.

Soldering is the number one difference between a solid build, and a nightmare build, especially when you build it yourself. If parts are bad (yes it happens a good bit) and things blow up (do to aforementioned bad soldering) you will be down money, frustrated, and still no practice flying the real thing (did I mention you will crash, possibly a lot at first) and you won't be sure what is wrong. I would strongly recommend watching a ton of soldering videos (take the advice with a grain of salt until you can prove the concept to yourself, lots of bad info out there), then finding old electronic boards to practice on, and be able to get smooth shiny joints before you solder on this new gear. I am Mil Spec/NASA Spec certified in soldering and have been doing it for 40 years, if you have questions, I can try to answer them for you. Once you have a little practice, and understand how flux/rosin and solder have certain properties, you will start soldering better and better very quickly.

The money you are spending on this setup is steep steep when you can't be sure you will like it and stick with it, but like I said, it's your money, and those look like a great setup
 

korpaczov

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Those parts are pretty much top of the line, they will get destroyed since you haven't flown yet, it takes some time and practice to not bash into everything including the ground, but it's your money.

The all HobbyWing stack will be even more plug and play than mixing the Mateck FC and HobbyWing ESC, but they will both work. Some will say they have had problems with HobbyWing stacks or Matek boards, but many many others love them and have no issue. There is no such thing as guaranteed out of the box, or a completely bulletproof part or build, so go with any of these and feel fairly certain you will get few or no bad parts.

Soldering is the number one difference between a solid build, and a nightmare build, especially when you build it yourself. If parts are bad (yes it happens a good bit) and things blow up (do to aforementioned bad soldering) you will be down money, frustrated, and still no practice flying the real thing (did I mention you will crash, possibly a lot at first) and you won't be sure what is wrong. I would strongly recommend watching a ton of soldering videos (take the advice with a grain of salt until you can prove the concept to yourself, lots of bad info out there), then finding old electronic boards to practice on, and be able to get smooth shiny joints before you solder on this new gear. I am Mil Spec/NASA Spec certified in soldering and have been doing it for 40 years, if you have questions, I can try to answer them for you. Once you have a little practice, and understand how flux/rosin and solder have certain properties, you will start soldering better and better very quickly.

The money you are spending on this setup is steep steep when you can't be sure you will like it and stick with it, but like I said, it's your money, and those look like a great setup
Thank you for your reply. You're right I will have a lot of crashes as I have no experience at all. That's why I thought about practising with the simulator before flying the real thing so I know more or less how to fly. Also, I will start to build a cheap drone so I have an opportunity to practise how to soldering/possibly avoid destroying expensive parts and how to fly. All of the parts listed above are for the 'proper' one when my experience will be good enough to pull it together. Could you please advise me how battery what battery I should go for?
 

HighTechPauper

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2700 KV motors, I think you will want to stick with 4s batteries, maybe you could push a 5s.
Size, I would stick between 1300 and 1800-ish MAH, 2000 max.
Depends on where in the world you are, and who you can purchase from, on what the best battery for the money available to you.
Where are you?
 

korpaczov

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2700 KV motors, I think you will want to stick with 4s batteries, maybe you could push a 5s.
Size, I would stick between 1300 and 1800-ish MAH, 2000 max.
Depends on where in the world you are, and who you can purchase from, on what the best battery for the money available to you.
Where are you?
England
 

HighTechPauper

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I am checking with a few friends in the UK to see where they buy from, I will get back to you. You will also need some 18650 cells for the goggles and a way to charge them, and you will need a good battery charger for your quad batts too.
 

HighTechPauper

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Looks like you at least have HobbyKing but from what I can see, they only have 3 brands, and I would stay FAR away from anything but the Turnigy. I have 10 of them, they aren't my favorites, but they are not bad. They tend to get a little puffy when I run them medium to hard, but they shrink back up as the battery cools and the voltage stabilizes. I would still do a google search and see what you can find for GNB (Gaoneng) or CNHL (ChiNaHobbyLine), and I have had good luck with Tattu, and Thunder Power also. There are usually a few good sales every year (BOGO and such) and batteries aren't cheap, so if you keep an eye out you can save some money by buying the bulk of them then.
 
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korpaczov

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Looks like you at least have HobbyKing but from what I can see, they only have 3 brands, and I would stay FAR away from anything but the Turnigy. I have 10 of them, they aren't my favorites, but they are not bad. They tend to get a little puffy when I run them medium to hard, but they shrink back up as the battery cools and the voltage stabilizes. I would still do a google search and see what you can find for GNB (Gaoneng) or CNHL (ChiNaHobbyLine), and I have had good luck with Tattu, and Thunder Power also. There are usually a few good sales every year (BOGO and such) and batteries aren't cheap, so if you keep an eye out you can save some money by buying the bulk of them then.
Thank you for your effort to help me out. Much appreciated!
I have found websites where there are a few Tattu batteries and they're shipping form UK: 4S (14.8V) LiPo – Unmanned Tech UK FPV Shop
and another one 4S Lipo Batteries 14.8V
it's a nightmare for me to pick the battery cos I have no idea about it. As you said I should go for the battery between 1300 and 1800 MAH, but some of them have 100C/120C/95C..
What battery should be the best for my aircraft at a reasonable price?

*EDIT*
Well, I am watching some tutorials and reading some articles in order to understand how to choose a battery but I am getting a bit confused..
So this is the formula from dronetrest.com to help me out calculate the maximum continuous current output for my battery :
Max continuous Amp draw (A) = Battery capacity (Ah) x Discharge rate (C)

F60PRO2.jpg

I'm getting confused because Current (A) is 50.59. Following the tutorial, I have to multiply that number by 4 since I am using 4 motors.. and it makes weirdly high number.
Otherwise If I take 50.59 as a total amount of (A) for all of the motors, it looks like 1800 MAH and 30C is the best for my aircraft? I think I am missing a point when it comes to batteries..
 
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HighTechPauper

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First rule of batteries... No battery can deliver what these modern quad motors can pull, but it doesn't matter since you will never be at full throttle for more than a few seconds, and in the beginning you will never go to full throttle since we don't have the experience to handle that much speed and power.

Second rule of batteries... Actual C Discharge ratings are bogus, it is a Marketing tactic, and does not speak to reality. That being said, higher discharge ratings do mean the battery should perform better than ones with lower discharge ratings.

Third rule of batteries... Always get the highest C rating available/affordable. This rule ALWAYS holds true, and don't consider anything with less than a 70C rating.

Forth rule of batteries... Bigger MAH means heavier and bigger size. MAH loosely relates to flight time, and the weight relates to quad performance due to the heavier load it is carrying. At some point the battery gets heavy enough to cancel out any extra flight time and reduces quad performance (due to the extra weight the quad is carrying). It is an option to get a bigger battery if you will only do slow cruising and want the longest possible flight time, but to be honest, I think you get ALMOST the same thing from the smaller/lighter batteries when flown in the same manner. Just as an example, when I first started I could fly for 5-10 minutes on a 1300 depending on the quad I was flying (I have about 10 5" quads), but as I got better, and flew harder, I am down to 3-6 minutes. Once I can push super hard for the whole flight I may only get 2.5 to 3.5 minutes out of those same batteries.



Let's take a look at the specs, and what they are telling us, even if the C rating isn't a completely true number.

1300 MAH (Milli Amp Hours) = 1.3 Amp Hours X 120C (240C burst) = 156 amps continuous with a burst rating of 312 amps for short periods. So that means, if true, the battery can handle your 50.59 amps per motor at full throttle for a short period, and can handle 85% throttle for the entire battery discharge curve.

If this example doesn't answer your questions let me know.

For me, with my experience and knowledge...

I would look at the 1300-1550 size, 1300 is the sweet spot for 5" since it has a lower weight and size, and reasonable flight times, 1550's are about the max size for performance and will yield only another 30+ seconds in the air (due to the extra weight).

I would look at the Tattu Fun Fly 1300 and/or 1550's, they are 100C rated, very reasonably priced, and get good reviews from pilots.

There is sooooo much more to know about chargers, charging, care of your batteries and dangers of them, lowest flight voltage (under load, and at rest), etc, and don't forget, batteries are consumables, they will fail or be destroyed over time. As another example, I have about 200 batteries (from 1s to 6s, 255mah to 1550mah, for Tiny Whoops up through 7" quads), most are 1-3+ years old, and only about 10 have been destroyed or failed on me, so they are likely to last a good long time if properly cared for.

If you do Facebook/Messenger, you should look me up and send me a friend request. I often use Messenger to talk and video chat with friends (many on this forum) that are out of the continental US for free. In this way I have helped about 50 people globally to date learn the basic ins and outs of the hobby. Below is my FB Profile pic so you will know it is me, the account is under "Randall Harbin" (aka fpv-fog). If you do send me a request, you will need to let me know here since I get about 10 per day and I won't know which person is you since I don't know your FB name.

 

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