FTX-Swift 2-Matek pdb

[RCKable]

so I am working on my 1st build and I’ve become a bit stumped. I’m doing the uavfutures $99 build but a few up-upgrades. I have the Eachine TX801 VTX, Runcam Swift 2, Matek system PDB 5v & 12v. I know the yellow from camera and VTX need to be soldered together but I’m not sure where to solder the camera and VTX to the PDB. Am I supposed to have one to the 5v and one to 12v or both to 5v/12v?
If I need to give more info just let me know what you need and I will get that info to you.

 

[Wayno52]

Wish I could help Kable but I’m going to be in same boat soon with my 1st build. How is it looking so far?

 

[RCKable]

My soldering has yet to become some what good, right now it’s doable and I’m getting better as I do more. I’m sure those who can solder will shake their heads looking at mine. LOL

 

[Jtrjr]

RC,

What flight controller (FC) are you using? In many cases the FC will connect to the PDB, the VTX will connect to the FC and the camera will connect to the VTX.

Jerry

 

[Jtrjr]

RC,

We all start somewhere. I would suggest that you "tin" your pads and your wires before you solder the wires to the pads. Don't be afraid to use some flux, just make sure you clean it off with a corrosive cleaner when you're done. It doesn't look like you have enough heat on your iron or you're not pre-tinning your pads and wires. Soldering is a skill that gets better with practice.

Jerry

 

[Wayno52]

Nice frame mate. Soldering should hold up then. Lol

 

[Wayno52]

Great info for us newbs jerry..

 

[theGreenOrange]

I agree with Jerry, wire the VTX to any battery voltage pad or 12V pad on the FC or PDB (a filtered 12v source would be nice). Then power the camera from the 5V out and ground wires on the VTX. This should keep noise as low as possible.

 

[RCKable]

@Jtrjr - My FC is the SP Racing F3. You are correct I wasn't paying attention, the soldering iron low (I thought I was at 450* and I was at 300*). Where the battery leads are thats just 2 holes in the PDB but I didn't want to solder the XT60 right to the PDB because I saw people saying in hard crashes the battery pops out and breaks the PDB/XT60 connection.

 

[VirtueViolater]

@Jtrjr - My FC is the SP Racing F3. You are correct I wasn't paying attention, the soldering iron low (I thought I was at 450* and I was at 300*). Where the battery leads are thats just 2 holes in the PDB but I didn't want to solder the XT60 right to the PDB because I saw people saying in hard crashes the battery pops out and breaks the PDB/XT60 connection.

What they mean when they say that is it pulls apart at the connector

 

[VirtueViolater]

View attachment 1161
My soldering has yet to become some what good, right now it’s doable and I’m getting better as I do more. I’m sure those who can solder will shake their heads looking at mine. LOL

Just keep your tip clean (clean it before every solder) with a file or brillo, and add a little solder to the iron to make it wet with solder before doing your solder joints

 

[RCKable]

@Jtrjr @theGreenOrange I have been pre-tinning my wires but I worried it wasn't enough. I over did it on the ESC-Motors connection and spent more time cutting wires then soldering. Its surely a task that I see is going to take time.

Thank you, I will solder the VTX to the 12V pad on the PDB, and the Camera to the 5V. I do have a capacitor that I was told to solder to a battery or esc pad to help with noise on the FVP.

 

[RCKable]

Just keep your tip clean (clean it before every solder) with a file or brillo, and add a little solder to the iron to make it wet with solder before doing your solder joints

I have been whipping the tip onto the damp sponge after each to get off any extra solder left on the tip, should I also touch a Brillo to it as well? (before the next solder)

What they mean when they say that is it pulls apart at the connector

. Ive seen a number of pictures where the PDB was actually broke right at the XT60 connector. Then found a thread that showed how to solder that battery lead in, but I didn't do as well of a job at as he did. I plan to put my battery on the bottom since others that used the Spaceone frame says its top heavy with the battery on top.

Nice frame mate. Soldering should hold up then. Lol

. Thanks Wayno its one from SpaceOne Formula 220X but I got it in package unopened for $24 not the $59 on there site.

 

[VirtueViolater]

I have been whipping the tip onto the damp sponge after each to get off any extra solder left on the tip, should I also touch a Brillo to it as well? (before the next solder)

. Ive seen a number of pictures where the PDB was actually broke right at the XT60 connector. Then found a thread that showed how to solder that battery lead in, but I didn't do as well of a job at as he did. I plan to put my battery on the bottom since others that used the Spaceone frame says its top heavy with the battery on top.

. Thanks Wayno its one from SpaceOne Formula 220X but I got it in package unopened for $24 not the $59 on there site.

as long as it doesnt have any tarnished solder on it when you solder a joint.

 

[VirtueViolater]

keep it up RC, youll be flying it in no time!
when the props turn on your first build, and that thing roars off into the air, its a feeling youll never forget, Youll have as many drones as Jerry before you know it....lol