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Flying for awhile now, what fpv racer should i get?

rawdawg85

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Hey guys ive been flying for a couple years now, mostly phantoms and higher end toy copters and quad copters. Ive been watching all the cool things and just raw power these little racers have. I wanna get like a 250 frame size, other than that I want to be able to do those long loops barrel rolls flips and just general crazy flying. I want it to have ample power, so I don't have to upgrade later. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a kit I can buy and assemble? What are your guys favs? What are you guys flying? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance RawDawg85.
 

Jomaba4308

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I really like Catalyst MachineWorks Speed Addict frames. It comes in 180-R(4 inch), 210-R(5 inch), 250-R(6 inch) and now an ultralight. I fly the 210-R and you can get with 3mm or 4mm main frame plate, the 4mm is very durable. My setup has hit the ground and race gates numerous times with 99% of the time only need to replace props, twice I had to press a motor back together with the 2nd time only because I forgot to re-tighten the grub screw holding the motor shaft in the motor bell.
As for electronics, there are so many options it's tough to suggest any one setup.

My setup:
-Speed Addict 210-R
-RunCam Swift camera
-RMRC Cricket 200mw vtx
-VAS Dura-Spec antenna
-Littlebee 20a escs
-MRM Mini Titan 2204-2300kv motors
-Dragonfly32 compact flight control board running Betaflight
-Lynx 5 inch props
-Pulse 3s 1800mah 75c (soon 4s 1800mah 75c)


This setup has good power but 2205/2206 motors provide more torque, great for getting out of tight spots (or get into) perform acrobatics
 
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rawdawg85

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I really like Catalyst MachineWorks Speed Addict frames. It comes in 180-R(4 inch), 210-R(5 inch), 250-R(6 inch) and now an ultralight. I fly the 210-R and you can get with 3mm or 4mm main frame plate, the 4mm is very durable. My setup has hit the ground and race gates numerous times with 99% of the time only need to replace props, twice I had to press a motor back together with the 2nd time only because I forgot to re-tighten the grub screw holding the motor shaft in the motor bell.
As for electronics, there are so many options it's tough to suggest any one setup.

My setup:
-Speed Addict 210-R
-RunCam Swift camera
-RMRC Cricket 200mw vtx
-VAS Dura-Spec antenna
-Littlebee 20a escs
-MRM Mini Titan 2204-2300kv motors
-Dragonfly32 compact flight control board running Betaflight
-Lynx 5 inch props
Thank you for your input, I really appreciate it and am gonna look into everything you suggested. Once again thanks for taking the time to post a response.
 

Jomaba4308

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Thank you for your input, I really appreciate it and am gonna look into everything you suggested. Once again thanks for taking the time to post a response.
No problem, I have no issues with taking time to help when & where I can.

Couple things worth mentioning, Dura-Spec antennas are very durable and difficult to break. And RMRC recently came out with a new Cricket Pro vtx, it's variable power (25mw, 200mw & 600mw) and comes either pigtail sma (handy for saving space on the Speed Addict frames) or fixed sma.
 

rawdawg85

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No problem, I have no issues with taking time to help when & where I can.

Couple things worth mentioning, Dura-Spec antennas are very durable and difficult to break. And RMRC recently came out with a new Cricket Pro vtx, it's variable power (25mw, 200mw & 600mw) and comes either pigtail sma (handy for saving space on the Speed Addict frames) or fixed sma.
You bet, I wrote it down in my notes, thanks again. You have a really good looking quad, and the more videos I watch, the more I read, and the more I talk with you I'm leaning more and more towards a 210 frame instead of the 250 I initially wanted to run. Your input is much appreciated.
 

Jomaba4308

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If you decide on the Catalyst MachineWorks Speed Addict frame, I recommend joining the CM Speed Addicts Owners Group on Facebook.

Frames in the area of 210mm motor-to-motor running 5 inch props seems to be the most popular & common.

I would also like to add a couple other things (I will update you as I think of new info).
-Littlebee 20a esc are tiny & lightweight but higher power motors will need the Littlebee 30a.
-I suggest the new Littlebee -S escs whether 20a or 30a
-Betaflight is capable with some escs running BLHeli of allowing you to setup & program all of the escs all at the same time through the flight control as long as the FC board is capable and the escs have a BLHeli bootloader. Littlebees have this capability so stick with them and no confusion.
 

Jomaba4308

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Almost forgot about one of the most important parts of FPV racing, the video display. Do you have anything for video feed? Goggles, tripod screen, headset, etc?
 

rawdawg85

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Almost forgot about one of the most important parts of FPV racing, the video display. Do you have anything for video feed? Goggles, tripod screen, headset, etc?
No I don't most of my flying has been LOS, and on a pad when flying my phantom. I was looking at getting a fat shark complete kit for like 200$ that comes with goggles, transmitter, antenna, and camera. you can even upgrade the kit to get better goggles. The camera even has a sd slot so you can record with the fpv camera without having to add a gopro, thought that was pretty cool.
 

Jomaba4308

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If you're looking at the teleporter V5 combo, I would not recommend it.
-Only 7ch receiver, no option to upgrade
-Fixed antenna, no option to switch it up
-CMOS camera, CCD is more highly recommended
-Narrow 25° FOV

I suggest Fatshark Attitude or Dominators.
-Dominator V3 has wider 35° fov, interchangeable receiver module, video dvr and HDMI input
-New Dominator SE has wider 50° fov, interchangeable receiver module and video dvr
-New Attitude V3 have 32° fov and interchangeable receiver module


I know it will cost more but you get better stuff for your money.

I started with Headplay HD (72° fov, 7 inch dia. screen, 40ch receiver, external receiver input and HDMI input) but I have just switched to Fatshark Dominator SE but keeping Headplay to allow other people to watch.
 
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rawdawg85

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I was, thanks for letting me know all of that. I definitely want to be able to upgrade and don't wanna start out with junk lol.
 

rawdawg85

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Almost forgot about one of the most important parts of FPV racing, the video display. Do you have anything for video feed? Goggles, tripod screen, headset, etc?
I'm leaning on this combo, what do you think?
Speed Addict 210
Cobra CM-2206/20 2100kv Multirotor Motor, Racing Edition
Littlebee 30A ESC's
Arco Naze32 Flight Controller
and I'm not sure about Transmitter, Receiver, and Battery. Do you have any sugestions for those, and what do you think about what I put together so far?
Is the Fat Shark Pilot Camera a good one to get?
 

Jomaba4308

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Speed Addict 210, Littlebee 30, Naze 32, excellent choices. I can't speak for Cobra motors but I suggest higher Kv and 2205 for balance between torque & rpm. Xnova, Scorpion and Zoe daily performance are all good options. I've seen Xnova & Scorpion in action and both are powerful tipping in favor of Xnova. I haven't seen Zoe but I know who started Zoe and he wouldn't release a poor quality product and he would make it right if you have a problem. I will be upgrading to Zoe 2205 2550kv motors for my Race Spec build.

Pulse lipos are reliable with several options available.

I am using the Taranis X9D Plus with an XSR receiver mounted in the Speed Addict frame.

The Pilot cam will not fit in the Speed Addict frames. Out of the box, the frame fits the Foxeer HS1177 camera. With a change in the vertical camera side plates it will fit the RunCam Swift & Owl Plus cameras. The HS1177 seems to be the benchmark for fpv racing cameras with the RunCam Swift almost the same but I feel the Swift has little better picture and light handling. I use the RunCam Swift, the camera settings in it's OSD menus are more easily accessible with the Swift & Owl Plus. Also the Pilot camera is CMOS, not CCD which handles changes in lighting better. And with analog video, the 720p would never be noticed.

Browse CatalystMachineWorks.com, he carries the frames, cameras, escs, FC board a vtx that fits well, the Swift camera side plates, and more. I recommend the Mantis F3 board. The Kombini board has a built-in 150a power distribution, transponder, buzzer and other features. No experience with Kombini but I've heard lots of good things about FuriousFPV who makes the Kombini.
Another FC option is the Dragonfly32 flight control board which is a Naze 32 board (I've been told rev.4), naze boards are everywhere with several names.
 
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rawdawg85

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I looked at all the motors you suggested and think am gonna go with the ZoeDailyPerformance ones. Thanks for the advise they look like they are a great deal at $20 a pop. I noticed they only sell CW motors, do I just switch two of the legs on the motor to reverse direction?
 

rawdawg85

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I cant tell you how much I really appreciate all of your help Jomaba4308. Thanks again!
 

Jomaba4308

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I looked at all the motors you suggested and think am gonna go with the ZoeDailyPerformance ones. Thanks for the advise they look like they are a great deal at $20 a pop. I noticed they only sell CW motors, do I just switch two of the legs on the motor to reverse direction?
The CW and CCW on the brushless quad racing motors is only for the prop shaft threads. CW is standard/common Right-hand thread (same as what you find on drink bottles), and CCW is Left-hand thread. They do sell both CW and CCW. That is done so that the rotation of the motor tightens the prop nut but doesn't make a difference of you use lock nuts (nuts with nylon insert to lock into threads).
I only use CW prop shafts because I find it less confusing, I prefer the look of the nyloc nuts vs the cones and I can buy nyloc nuts in bulk. But that's personal preference and neither is right or wrong but I have seen the cones release in a crash, I have yet to lose a nyloc nut.

Reversing rotation on all brushless motors is as simple as switching any 2 wires. Me running Betaflight and BLHeli, I actually just connect motors to escs for clean wiring and look and just reverse motor rotation through BLHeli.
 

rawdawg85

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The CW and CCW on the brushless quad racing motors is only for the prop shaft threads. CW is standard/common Right-hand thread (same as what you find on drink bottles), and CCW is Left-hand thread. They do sell both CW and CCW. That is done so that the rotation of the motor tightens the prop nut but doesn't make a difference of you use lock nuts (nuts with nylon insert to lock into threads).
I only use CW prop shafts because I find it less confusing, I prefer the look of the nyloc nuts vs the cones and I can buy nyloc nuts in bulk. But that's personal preference and neither is right or wrong but I have seen the cones release in a crash, I have yet to lose a nyloc nut.

Reversing rotation on all brushless motors is as simple as switching any 2 wires. Me running Betaflight and BLHeli, I actually just connect motors to escs for clean wiring and look and just reverse motor rotation through BLHeli.
I'm gonna order some parts tonight, what part do I need to get that makes my quad beep really loud when I toggle a switch on the RC if I lose it? Or is that just part of the FC? Another question I had was do I need to run any kind of step down voltage transformer or anything if I'm running the Naze32 FC, The Lumenier TX5G6 Video Transmitter, with a Lumenier Cm-650TVL Camera. I'm gonna be using a 1800mlA 4cell, and a 1300mlA 4cell depending on whether or not I'm running my GOPRO. Your input is greatly received and helping me out tremendously, Thank You.
 

Jomaba4308

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I'm gonna order some parts tonight, what part do I need to get that makes my quad beep really loud when I toggle a switch on the RC if I lose it? Or is that just part of the FC? Another question I had was do I need to run any kind of step down voltage transformer or anything if I'm running the Naze32 FC, The Lumenier TX5G6 Video Transmitter, with a Lumenier Cm-650TVL Camera. I'm gonna be using a 1800mlA 4cell, and a 1300mlA 4cell depending on whether or not I'm running my GOPRO. Your input is greatly received and helping me out tremendously, Thank You.
Buzzer: Some flight control board like the Dragonfly32 Compact do come with a buzzer pre-installed. Other boards like the original Naze32 board do not and you need to get a separate buzzer.

Voltage: The Speed Addict frames come with a power distribution board (PDB) which has regulated 5v output to power the FC and a regulated & filtered output of selectable 12v or 5v for your vtx & camera. Many vtx's and cameras can run on 4s power so select 12v but be careful if using video equipment that can only run 5v.

I haven't heard a lot about Lumenier and the few things I have heard, wasn't good so I won't recommend Lumenier. Plus I have no way of knowing if that camera will even fit in the Speed Addict frames.

The Speed Addict frame was designed for the Foxeer HS1177 camera and Neill recently released a new side part to mount the RunCam Swift and Owl Plus. The Swift camera and HS1177 are both $10 cheaper than the Lumenier CM650 anyway.

Here is a vtx that is the same price as the Lumenier, small with no aluminum case so should fit nicely, pigtail sma saves space and it's variable power (0, 25, 200, 600) Dragon Rider DRAK 5.8G 40 Channel Adjustable FPV AV Transmitter
I've used Dragon Rider vtx and didn't have any troubles and would use again but I like the microphone in the Cricket vtx.
 

Jomaba4308

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How's it coming?
 

rawdawg85

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Unfortunately I had ordered a vast majority of the parts before I read your last couple posts but I figure it's my first one and it's a learning process lol. As long as it flies and I gain knowledge for my next ones. I'm now just waiting on everything to get here, should be another week or so. This is the part list I went with:
Lumenier QAV 210 frame
Z.D.P. 2205/2550kV motors
DYS 30A helli ESC'S
NAZE32 FC w/ low V and buzzer
Lumenier CMOS12000HD camera
Lumenier TX5G2R VTx
ImmersionRC clover flex ant (2)
Lumenier 1800mA 4s 75c batteries (2)
Taranis X9D with w/ receiver
Fat Shark HD V2
5.8GHz Module for goggles

After looking over everything I see I'm gonna have a problem with my camera. It shoots in 16:9 and I was looking my goggles only display in 4:3, will the goggles just crop the extra wideness or will my image be distorted (fish eyed) and am I gonna have to get a different camera, which sucks cause I already spent $55 on this one, what do you think?
 

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