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Emax Buzz VTX change out

I think the way I would do it is cut the connector that serving the current VTX off, and solder those wires to the new VTX (not use the wires that come on the new one) Should just be power, ground, video in and smart audio. That's assuming the camera is getting power from the FC.

If you're sure you like this hobby then its never too soon to learn. You'll be building and fixing them soon :)
 
@rtkDarling I have been flying for about 3years now. I am coming from the DJI drones. I have 2 orginal Mavic Pro1 and a lot of time and effort in them as I was a beta tester for some of the modding that went on behind the scenes for the MP1 as well as money in rigs for them. I like ve them awesome video/pictures. But as I have gotten my feet wet now I wanted something more rewarding and challenging in flying. First I looked into racing, yeah it was cool but Freestyle WOW!!! So this is my first freestyle drone, I was going to get the Hawk but the buzz came out and I got this one. Iwas very disappointed when I found out after a few flights that I didn't have audio, that's what I want. To hear my props/motors while I do tricks and not only see/feel but also hear the props/motors/wind when I dive or do I think they call them S-bends or something like that. I fell in love after watching yoy guys do freestyle and then trying my buddies even tho I'm not good yet. I will still fly my Mavics but I fell on love with Freestyle!

Do you have any idea where I could find maybe some kind of stand-off or extends for the other 2 boths so I could mount this VTX?

And I will look into my Emax Buzz this week about how it is powering everything and let you know, if you don't mind helping me?
 
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That's how I started as well. Loved the Mavic but kept putting it at risk with low flights through trees.

You can use plastic standoffs to extend them, but getting longer bolts is best. The VTX is pretty easy, there are a bunch of guys around here that will help you. I haven't been able to find the part as a single or replacement, so I don't know if it's drawing 5 volts or Vbat. Your new VTX will take Vbat so you can solder it right to the main power input if you have to
 
You know, it's just an M3 bolt, nothing special. You can pull one, measure it, or just take it to the hardware store. I bet it's less than a buck for the pair you need. You can use a nylon nut as a spacer

These guys have good stuff too

Hardware and Bling

Pyro Drone is the leading source of professional FPV drone racing parts, gear, and accessories. latest and most reliable FPV gear available on the market. highest quality at an affordable price, Hyperlitethe most competitive FPV drone racing.
pyrodrone.com pyrodrone.com
 
@rtkDarling thanks man I didn't know about thus site. I'll check it out!
Yeah it appears that the long side bolt has a hex metal spacer. So even tho the website states it's a complete hardware kit it isn't. But the Babyhawk R pro hardware kit does
 
I like Pyrodrone, you should check them out on FB too because they announce sales. Ship from Cali, good customer service and free shipping over $50 (which is pretty standard now)
 
@rtkDarling So AKK teck support has emailed me back. They said that the

AKK FX2-ultimate US Version 5.8GHz VTX will work with my "FC" on my Emax Buzz and

can do both "Smart audio" as well as "audio" at the same time. Why because the "mic" for audio is on board(alittle speaker) and "Smart Audio" is on a different channel which is from the mic on the camera. If my FC is setup where the camera mic is configured for "Smart Audio" then I will have both of the best with this

AKK FX2-ultimate US Version 5.8GHz VTX.

Well now my FC is already setup with "Smart Audio" but I have no audio which the AKK will give me both. So my only problem is I want to change out the camera to something much better and the one you suggested was the... RunCam Micro Eagle FPV Camera 800TVL

Amazon.com: RunCam Micro Eagle FPV Camera 800TVL NTSC/PAL 4:3/16:9 Switchable Global WDR Micro CMOS Cam for FPV Racing Drone by Crazepony

Amazon.com: RunCam Micro Eagle FPV Camera 800TVL NTSC/PAL 4:3/16:9 Switchable Global WDR Micro CMOS Cam for FPV Racing Drone by Crazepony
www.amazon.com

Which will fit the FPV camera cage BUT doesn't support "Smart Audio"
And I will have to cut and splice wires and remove the "green" wire for "Smart Audio".

I came across this FPV camera which supports "Smart Audio" it has the "green" wire along with all the other wires AND as I stated before my FC on my BUZZ is already setup for "Smart Audio". But I don't know it it will fit the FPV camera cage. Even tho it states towards the bottom of the page under
Features & details

Mini size design:28 * 26mm (W * L)

Do you think it can fot the FPV camera cage on my BUZZ and what the you think about this FPV camera??

Amazon.com : FOXEER FPV Camera Falkor 1200TVL 1.8mm Lens 4:3/16:9 Screen PAL/NTSC Switchable 1/3CMOS G-WDR OSD DC 5V-40V All-Weather Adaptive Camera for FPV Racing Drone Quadcopter by Crazepony : Electronics

Amazon.com : FOXEER FPV Camera Falkor 1200TVL 1.8mm Lens 4:3/16:9 Screen PAL/NTSC Switchable 1/3CMOS G-WDR OSD DC 5V-40V All-Weather Adaptive Camera for FPV Racing Drone Quadcopter by Crazepony : Electronics
www.amazon.com
 
Smart Audio is only a feature on vTX's, not cameras. Cameras can have some amount of control (through the green wire) but it is not "Smart Audio".
I think you may be confused a little on how some of this works, and I think you will find the "Audio" portion you get to be lackluster, but give it a try.
IMHO
 
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@HighTechPauper thanks for answering back. I am not looking for HiDef audio but I do want to hear so I am already expecting that and as some of my HAM radio budfies have said the mono audio can be improved upon at either the receiver end or ear piece and they will help me on that. Yes I am a little confused on this "Smart Audio" thing but I am learning and my BUZZ already supports it and I am trying to stay as close to OEM equipment as possible while upgrading and the 2 cameras "rtkDarling" and I are talking about only 1 has a wiring harness that will support all 4 wires. That's why I ask him about the other one.
 
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Just quickly @HighTechPauper knows more about this than I do, and I've held off on answering because frankly I don't know, having never used the audio function on my VTX. TBH using the motor sound as I hear it from the ground helps me keep a location on the quad, so having the actual motor noise in my ear would be distracting for me
 
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I understand completely, I have flown with RTK, he is a killer videographer and pilot, on tech I can probably help a little more with specs and things. Let's see if @rtkDarling agrees with my assessment LOL ;)
 
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Ok, so RTK agrees, and I think a few others might as well like Wayno52 or Futuramille, I am kind of the specs and tech guy for a number of things. 40+ years in Defense Electronics and complex hardware and software gives me a bit of an advantage on this part of the hobby. If I can point you in the right direction I will.
 
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OK guys, I pulled thr brakes on this as I believe it's not going to work. So if any kjow other wise please help me out.
So upon reviewing more closely the FC on my Emax Buzz only sends 4.5-5.5v to the VTX and the one I want needs voltage from 7-26v so I ak stuck. I did order the micro Eagle as I like them as I have the Runcam night eagke pro 2 on another drone.

Also I am thinking about doing "Crossfire" on my Taranis SE 2019 BUT again I have to figure out how to wore it to my FC as I will take out the XM+.
Any help from snyine will be great!!
Thank you,
Brian
 
You can wire your new VTX straight to your battery input pads, or wire it to a VBAT pad on your FC. This is common for higher powered VTX, they need more voltage input.

A lot of guys here run crossfire, I personally haven't taken the plunge yet. The reason is that I normally lose video before I lose radio control, so I've been concentrating on getting better video reception. Crossfire is pretty much wasted on you without the VTX upgrade
 
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HighTechPauper said:
Ok, so RTK agrees, and I think a few others might as well like Wayno52 or Futuramille, I am kind of the specs and tech guy for a number of things. 40+ years in Defense Electronics and complex hardware and software gives me a bit of an advantage on this part of the hobby. If I can point you in the right direction I will.
Click to expand...
Thank you my friend as I may need to call upon them skills you can offer, until I can spread my wings and fly "Freestyle"
 
rtkDarling said:
You can wire your new VTX straight to your battery input pads, or wire it to a VBAT pad on your FC. This is common for higher powered VTX, they need more voltage input.

A lot of guys here run crossfire, I personally haven't taken the plunge yet. The reason is that I normally lose video before I lose radio control, so I've been concentrating on getting better video reception. Crossfire is pretty much wasted on you without the VTX upgrade
Click to expand...
I understand the principals of RF and agree with the "Crossfire" ideas. There is this problem with the Emax Buzz that I have to understand before I move forward doing it. Watch video


And then how would I wire it to my FC?

Thanks for the Intel, I will then order the VTX and wire to battery contact points on board. Just concerned about melting it as it will be a direct connection.
 
rtkDarling is correct, everything you mentioned is completely doable and ok @4th_Dimension, I will add that it isn't exactly a waste to add crossfire IMHO because there is some benefits. Maybe my video is better than RTK's but I have had 4-6 occasions where my video was ok but I had dipped below a hill or around a large building and had a failsafe. I normally go 5 or 6 hundred yards minimum without any issues in control but there have been times when the ground or a other big thick structures have caused a micro failsafe of longer than .5 seconds and down I go. Crossfire has a bit better latency than most other protocols and those sketchy areas with the Frsky 2.4G link are never an issue with the 900Mhz link. I don't put crossfire on everything, so I still run plenty of 2.4G, but it can be nice to never have to worry about control and only need to test video penetration when trying new spots.

Hook your vTX to the vBat pad on the FC if there is one (let me know if you don't know where it is and I will research it for you) or directly to where the battery pigtail lands on the FC or ESC in the buzz and you will be good.

For crossfire it is also super easy to wire in, you only need a free UART RX and TX (port) on the FC to hook it to along with 5v and ground, again if you are not sure where let me know and I will pull up the Emax stack and let you know a good place to wire to.

This is all assuming you can solder fairly well, the pads on the FC are pretty easy and the only concern I would have is if you need to solder directly to where the battery pigtail is soldered because there wasn't a vBat pad on the FC for the vTX. If you did need to solder to the pigtail, don't reflow the whole solder joint, simply add a small reflow to the top of the solder joint to add the new wires since reflowing the whole joint is difficult due to the amount of copper on the power input and it sinks an awful lot of heat.

Any questions or concerns hmu.
 

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