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DJI RE goggles or fatsharks?

Thunder_Rob

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New here. First post rejected. Pretty disappointed because that was a well thought out description of my introduction with a legitimate question that I’ve been needing answered. Should I keep my DJI RE goggles or replace them for a different brand and which kind. What constitutes approval and rejection here?
 

Donnie Baker

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New here. First post rejected. Pretty disappointed because that was a well thought out description of my introduction with a legitimate question that I’ve been needing answered. Should I keep my DJI RE goggles or replace them for a different brand and which kind. What constitutes approval and rejection here?
Wasn’t rejected just not got to yet. Here it is and Welcome to
the forum. 👍

Hey all,

brand new here and to the fpv world. I have a DJI phantom 4 pro that I’ve been using for cinematography. I bought the DJI racing edition goggles with the drone over a year ago and to this day have still never found the need to use goggles with the phantom so I haven’t even opened the box.

Now I am interested to enter the world of FPV Acro flying. So the question that I’m faced with now is... Should I sell my unopened DJI RE goggles and switch to some fatsharks or comparable at the $300 range. OR should I keep the RE goggles and invest in the ocusync system... honestly, I have a small head, so box goggles just don’t seem like they’d be the route to go for me in terms of comfort. And my first impression is that DJI’s selling point seems to be crystal clear fpv transmission, but I don’t care about that as much to start out with, all I care about right now is range and latency.

I was thinking I’d buy a prebuilt eachine wizard x220 to start out with. I currently have a FrSky Taranis Q x7 remote (Been having tons of fun flying simulations on Velocidrone). And the next thing is to decide between adapting and using the DJI RE goggles or swapping them out for a different set of goggles like Fatsharks or something. Oh and figuring out what receiver to buy to attach to the drone itself.

I appreciate your responses and I hope you all don’t mind my noob level questions that I may ask from here on out! 😅
 

Thunder_Rob

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Wasn’t rejected just not got to yet. Here it is and Welcome to
the forum. 👍

Hey all,

brand new here and to the fpv world. I have a DJI phantom 4 pro that I’ve been using for cinematography. I bought the DJI racing edition goggles with the drone over a year ago and to this day have still never found the need to use goggles with the phantom so I haven’t even opened the box.

Now I am interested to enter the world of FPV Acro flying. So the question that I’m faced with now is... Should I sell my unopened DJI RE goggles and switch to some fatsharks or comparable at the $300 range. OR should I keep the RE goggles and invest in the ocusync system... honestly, I have a small head, so box goggles just don’t seem like they’d be the route to go for me in terms of comfort. And my first impression is that DJI’s selling point seems to be crystal clear fpv transmission, but I don’t care about that as much to start out with, all I care about right now is range and latency.

I was thinking I’d buy a prebuilt eachine wizard x220 to start out with. I currently have a FrSky Taranis Q x7 remote (Been having tons of fun flying simulations on Velocidrone). And the next thing is to decide between adapting and using the DJI RE goggles or swapping them out for a different set of goggles like Fatsharks or something. Oh and figuring out what receiver to buy to attach to the drone itself.

I appreciate your responses and I hope you all don’t mind my noob level questions that I may ask from here on out! 😅
Thanks Donnie. Before it appeared as pending and this morning it was completely gone so I got pretty discouraged thinking I violated some rule. Thanks for clarifying.
 

rtkDarling

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If you've already got a QX7 then I'de recommend you get a micro. You get more thrill in a smaller space with a micro, so they're great to learn on. I like the original 1s tinyhawk if you've got space indoors, or the tinyhawk freestyle if you're in a warm spot to practice outside. Any brushless micro will do the trick, and they go for about $100.

Give those DJI goggles a try! High quality screens, they may have a little more latency than race goggles but you'd be hard pressed to notice. If they work I'd keep em, I feel like they're gonna be hard to sell.
 

Thunder_Rob

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If you've already got a QX7 then I'de recommend you get a micro. You get more thrill in a smaller space with a micro, so they're great to learn on. I like the original 1s tinyhawk if you've got space indoors, or the tinyhawk freestyle if you're in a warm spot to practice outside. Any brushless micro will do the trick, and they go for about $100.


Give those DJI goggles a try! High quality screens, they may have a little more latency than race goggles but you'd be hard pressed to notice. If they work I'd keep em, I feel like they're gonna be hard to sell.
Hehe, well since they’ve never been opened, still sealed and untampered, I was going to try the old Walmart trick where they take back one item a year without a receipt. But I better hope they haven’t had any deals because they only give back the lowest retail price it has ever been set at. So I won’t get exactly what I paid for them, but close. I know for sure that DJI is having a Black Friday sale this month on these goggles shortly so I better hurry if I go that route.

I’ve been considering the Skyzone 02x all morning. They look pretty damn great!
 

rtkDarling

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I'm gonna be honest. I've tried the original HDOs and I wasn't impressed enough to buy them. The simple truth is that analog FPV is a limited quality signal, and the limits are on the camera and the transmission. I used EV800d for a year and there are two reasons they don't work long term. One, they have an internal battery so they're a pain on the road. Two they don't have a true diversity receiver, but that receiver costs more than the goggles themselves.

It's my opinion, but if I can see wires and branches without leaves then I can navigate. No HD system has lived up to the quality of a Gopro for film.
 

HighTechPauper

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Welcome @Thunder_Rob, yeah, I'm bummed too, I had written a long reply and when I hit the "Post Reply" button your post didn't exist anymore! :oops:

In short, the DJI RE will not be a good choice to keep, you will never get what you paid for them, but they will never work well for this hobby and I would sell them if I could. If the DJI's were any good at all for FPV, somebody would be running them, but literally nobody in the world is. They have a non diversity, crappy receiver, ship it with an LHCP antenna, and only looks good if coupled with the DJI Occusync Air Unit.

While RTK is correct than analog is limited, there is still a "better" and "worse" picture that you can get. There are a number of reasons like mismatched video standards, and what display resolutions the screens are optimized for, as well as the hardware of the camera etc, but very good is still possible and you won't get that from the DJI's without the expensive, huge, and fragile Occusync units.

RTK is spot on tho when he says get a whoop class to start, and move to a 3 later, and then a 5+, you get all the thrill from the small ones and can fly them inside during bad weather and winds. Learn on something that is durable so that you don't break the 3 and 5+ model learning.

IMHO
 

Thunder_Rob

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Welcome @Thunder_Rob, yeah, I'm bummed too, I had written a long reply and when I hit the "Post Reply" button your post didn't exist anymore! :oops:

In short, the DJI RE will not be a good choice to keep, you will never get what you paid for them, but they will never work well for this hobby and I would sell them if I could. If the DJI's were any good at all for FPV, somebody would be running them, but literally nobody in the world is. They have a non diversity, crappy receiver, ship it with an LHCP antenna, and only looks good if coupled with the DJI Occusync Air Unit.

While RTK is correct than analog is limited, there is still a "better" and "worse" picture that you can get. There are a number of reasons like mismatched video standards, and what display resolutions the screens are optimized for, as well as the hardware of the camera etc, but very good is still possible and you won't get that from the DJI's without the expensive, huge, and fragile Occusync units.

RTK is spot on tho when he says get a whoop class to start, and move to a 3 later, and then a 5+, you get all the thrill from the small ones and can fly them inside during bad weather and winds. Learn on something that is durable so that you don't break the 3 and 5+ model learning.

IMHO
Nothing is more disappointing than a long message that was eaten by the system 😢

Thanks for that assurance on the DJI RE goggles. That’s exactly how I’ve been feeling. Granted, they have great options paired with my phantom, but the truth of the matter is that I never find a need for goggles with that drone. I have the Crystal Sky LED display and it performs so well even in the sun that I don’t see myself using those goggles. I also thought that the ocusync link looked pretty big and heavy.

as for the whoop, what if I skip the micros since I’m running simulations on Velocidrone? How true to the acro feel are these simulators? I hoped this one would be more true since it cost $20 while others are free or cheaper. That said, it is so hard to hover in place in rate mode on Velocidrone! 🤯 I’ve got a lot of practice to do!
 
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Futuramille

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Welcome Rob! The truth IMO regarding simulators is that they simply don't represent reality. They do teach you how to use TX sticks and start to give you some thumb muscle memory. What RTK advised is a tough little quad that can fly in almost any space. Until your actually flying and getting the random effects of the real world on your quad, you still face a big portion of the learning curve.
I advise against going cheap on goggles. goggles and TX are something you use with all your quads (yes you'll get more than one) and buying the best today will be an investment for at least the next year or so. No matter what you get in FPV gear, the visual quality isnt at all like gopro produced vids you see on youtube. If you know you didn't get the best possible, you will wonder if buying better would improve your view and it would so you'll end up buying twice.
..and ditch the DJI goggles for what $ you can get..its not gonna be a fun experience to use and its all about having fun.
 
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Thunder_Rob

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Welcome Rob! The truth IMO regarding simulators is that they simply don't represent reality. They do teach you how to use TX sticks and start to give you some thumb muscle memory. What RTK advised is a tough little quad that can fly in almost any space. Until your actually flying and getting the random effects of the real world on your quad, you still face a big portion of the learning curve.
I advise against going cheap on goggles. goggles and TX are something you use with all your quads (yes you'll get more than one) and buying the best today will be an investment for at least the next year or so. No matter what you get in FPV gear, the visual quality isnt at all like gopro produced vids you see on youtube. If you know you didn't get the best possible, you will wonder if buying better would improve your view and it would so you'll end up buying twice.
..and ditch the DJI goggles for what $ you can get..its not gonna be a fun experience to use and its all about having fun.
Thanks for the info. Right now I’m looking at the skyzone 02x. They seem pretty reliable and cost effective. I’ll just have to pick up some nice antennas to add on to it. They seem like they’ll be good beginner goggles and I’ll consider an upgrade when the next line of fatsharks come out. Seems like a lot of people wish that the $500 HDOs came with a little more for the price tag.
 

HighTechPauper

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Flying a sim will start the learning curve about what reactions the fingers make based off what you see in your goggles, and for that they are worth it. While they don't really compare to the real thing, many people have flown with them and then went straight to acro (rate) mode on their first real flight, no other experience will do that for you, and you can practice tricks without risking your quads. About "the micros", anything smaller than a 5 inch prop (mini quad) is considered a micro, whoops are more of a micro micro, still I think everyone should have one for indoors due to darkness, rain/snow/etc, and very windy days. But make no mistake, with enough sim time, you can start with any quad size you like and have good success. Of course, we all crash and break things, so you won't escape completely even if you sim like crazy. Again, IMHO
 
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Thunder_Rob

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Flying a sim will start the learning curve about what reactions the fingers make based off what you see in your goggles, and for that they are worth it. While they don't really compare to the real thing, many people have flown with them and then went straight to acro (rate) mode on their first real flight, no other experience will do that for you, and you can practice tricks without risking your quads. About "the micros", anything smaller than a 5 inch prop (mini quad) is considered a micro, whoops are more of a micro micro, still I think everyone should have one for indoors due to darkness, rain/snow/etc, and very windy days. But make no mistake, with enough sim time, you can start with any quad size you like and have good success. Of course, we all crash and break things, so you won't escape completely even if you sim like crazy. Again, IMHO
Ok, I appreciate this information 👌🏽 Is there a whoop or micro out there that you would recommend that’s cheap and can do full acro? How do you know if a drone can do acro? I’ve seen many online that don’t say whether or not they can fly in acro mode or not. Barrel rolls and flips are the abilities that I want to get the most practice on. Since I have a remote already, is the correct thing for me to look for, Bind-to-fly, BTF, is that right?
 

rtkDarling

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Yep, you can get a bind and fly unit, just make sure it compatible with the radio you have.
How do you know if a drone can do acro?
Anything that says it's betaflight compatible has the ability to do acro. There are a lot of junk toys out there that have proprietary flight controllers, and I would avoid all of those.

If you have the space to fly indoors I would get a whoop with prop guards like the original Tinyhawk (1s) If you plan to fly outdoors all the time you can look at the toothpick class micros, and the field is full of them right now. The tinyhawk freestyle is a safe option, but I'd let the crew here chime in on their favorite because I haven't flown a lot of micros, and it's one of the fastest growing segments in FPV
 
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HighTechPauper

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The Bind aNd Fly (BNF) is what you want, needs to be Frsky compatible, and that is an easy ask since they are everywhere. Keep in mind that the whoop class can do all the tricks but it is MUCH harder to pull off because they have such small props and therefore not a lot of grip when you try to pull out of a maneuver, but with enough practice it can be done. A bigger quad is much easier to do these tricks because of bigger props that get a much better bite on the air. I think the very best one, if you only get one, is the Happy Model Mobula 7 V2, it doesn't have the best camera but has a great power to weight ratio and can run on 1s or 2s. Of the ones I have (TinyHawk original V1, Mob7 V1, Eachine Trashcan) that would be what I would recommend for grunt and durability. The TinyHawk V2 is another possibility, and my favorite is the Trashcan but it is heavier and not quite as durable. Keep an eye out for a sale from a US vendor over the holidays and you should be able to get one of these for about $100 or less, but if the lower price from Banggood catches your eye, just remember it could be a month or 2 before it arrives and there is NO customer service to fall back on. Again IMHO.
 
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tevek

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Have to agree with @HighTechPauper in that apart from the different flight characteristics with the smaller class of quads (whoops, cinewhoops etc) vs the larger units, you can still have a lot of fun learning albeit at a much lower cost. I have six of the smaller micros and despite some reliability issues with the happymodel range (long story), the trashcan is probably the best of the lower cost quads and from memory has a 25-200mw vtx which helps a lot given where I mostly fly. It can do Acro and the like, just plan ahead and give yourself some room when whizzing around. Best of all, no one seems to be bothered when I’m flying down at the local footy oval.
 

Thunder_Rob

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Thanks for the info. I’ll be looking into whoops.

Here’s a new question. Strafing. On the simulator, strafing seems a little difficult because when attempting to strafe, the drone is always moving forward more than a left or right strafe. Is this just how quadcopters move that I need to get used to or is it possible that I altered some settings to make it like this? By comparison, have any of you played the game Battlefield 4? Flying Helicopters in battlefield 4 is difficult for many people, I started playing it again and realized that the controls are the same for throttle, raw, roll, and pitch. Strafing comes so easy here. I realize this is just a game, but are they really so different from real quad piloting? It just seems weird to me that when I try to strafe on Velocidrone, it seems like the movement is a 45 degree angle forward and to the side rather than 90 degree strafe left or right. Thanks for reading.
 

HighTechPauper

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I think you will find that the game is simplified and that real flight is more like Velocidrone, but I am not a gamer so I am not sure.
 

rtkDarling

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Try lowering your camera angle, it might feel more natural for what you're looking for moving sideways. You'll find that a higher angle will encourage you to fly forward more aggressively, and without any forward movement you'll be pointed at the sky
 
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Thunder_Rob

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Try lowering your camera angle, it might feel more natural for what you're looking for moving sideways. You'll find that a higher angle will encourage you to fly forward more aggressively, and without any forward movement you'll be pointed at the sky
Thanks, I’ll try this. My camera angle is set to 25 and I didn’t think of that. I’ll try going lower.
 

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