Hi guys if someone could explain how to check for continuity on a drone. Where do I start from? THANKS IN ADVANCE
Continuity check question
- Thread starter Armandoaulet
- Start date
VirtueViolater
Well-Known Member
Continuity is just checking for a complete circuit. If you have your meter set to check for continuity and put the test leads on each end of a short wire, your meter will show continuity. If the wire was cut in half and you did the same thing, the meter will read 0
VirtueViolater
Well-Known Member
VirtueViolater
Well-Known Member
With your meter set to read continuity, hold the ground (black) lead to the negative solder pad coming from your battery (battery unplugged) and use the positive (red) lead to check all positive connections on your fc, bec etc. If you read continuity, you know you have a short on that particular component
Be careful here, a few things of note from my experience...
When it is shorted you will read 0 (zero) or very very close to it.
When there is a circuit in the path of any kind you could get continuity with some amount of resistance that isn't an open, but isn't a short. Be careful to read if it is 10's or 100's or 1000's or 1,000,000's of ohms or whatever. If you're not careful you could read 1 megohm as 1 ohm if you don't understand how your meter shows the multiplier.
When you are looking at a true open most meters will read either OL for Over Limit, or as in Virtues case his meter is showing a capital "I" for Infinite (by the meters scale which usually means greater than 10 megohm).
There is a good bit more, like what going across a capacitor looks like (short climbing in resistance to an open) or multiple resistance paths through a parallel circuit etc etc.
It is easy to think you have a problem when you don't if the evaluation of the reading and why you may be getting it is misdiagnosed.
Just my 2 cents.
When it is shorted you will read 0 (zero) or very very close to it.
When there is a circuit in the path of any kind you could get continuity with some amount of resistance that isn't an open, but isn't a short. Be careful to read if it is 10's or 100's or 1000's or 1,000,000's of ohms or whatever. If you're not careful you could read 1 megohm as 1 ohm if you don't understand how your meter shows the multiplier.
When you are looking at a true open most meters will read either OL for Over Limit, or as in Virtues case his meter is showing a capital "I" for Infinite (by the meters scale which usually means greater than 10 megohm).
There is a good bit more, like what going across a capacitor looks like (short climbing in resistance to an open) or multiple resistance paths through a parallel circuit etc etc.
It is easy to think you have a problem when you don't if the evaluation of the reading and why you may be getting it is misdiagnosed.
Just my 2 cents.
