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Cinematic FPV

Arty

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Hello everybody,

I am new here. I make a lot of cinematic travel videos and would like to build an FPV drone to "upgrade" the footage from my Mavic.
I was inspired a lot by Johny FPV videos. I am looking for some advice to make my FPV as smooth as possible, but still, be able to do some freestyle with that.
After hesitating a lot I think I will go with DJI digital system and am thinking about a 5" frame.
I've done a lot of research, but still very lost.
The budget is not really a problem, I just want to get the best footage from it.
Anybody have any setup in mind that I can base my research on?

Thank you
 
Hello everybody,

I am new here. I make a lot of cinematic travel videos and would like to build an FPV drone to "upgrade" the footage from my Mavic.
I was inspired a lot by Johny FPV videos. I am looking for some advice to make my FPV as smooth as possible, but still, be able to do some freestyle with that.
After hesitating a lot I think I will go with DJI digital system and am thinking about a 5" frame.
I've done a lot of research, but still very lost.
The budget is not really a problem, I just want to get the best footage from it.
Anybody have any setup in mind that I can base my research on?

Thank you

Arty,

Welcome! How about something like this: Geprc Cinequeen 4K Drone

Jerry
 
I struggle getting this out correctly, so bear with me. Money aside, time is always of the essence. If you're going straight into a 5 inch, you need to be at peace absolutely wreaking it, and that's not always easy coming from the DJI world where we NEVER EVER crash. FPV drones do crash, and they crash a lot.

I bring up time because I found the fastest way for me to learn was to get a brushless micro. The tiny form factor let me fly just about anywhere, as opposed to getting the 5 inch out and finding a nice open space to learn to fly in. If you own some acreage that's one thing, but if you're deep in the city you're going to lose a lot of time going to the field, and then walking to retrieve your bird every time you crash it. With the micros I can fly around my house, and it's never more that a dozen steps away. This allowed me to accrue stick time faster, and graduating up to the full size rig feels like being set free, instead of being intimidating.

Problem is, that brushless micro isn't delivering video of any usable quality, it's just a trainer. But it could save you time and money in the long run. Again, that's just my personal experience.

Jumping into the DJI world

This is the GepRc with the DJI unit:
That is pretty much the smallest form factor you can put the DJI unit in. It's more for this kind of flying:


If you want more flips and speed, then you'll want a bigger rig like a 5 inch. Some of that flippy-floppy takes some real skill to make it look cinematic. All of Johny's videos have been put through ReelSteady which is a program that smooths the flight out. He's also been at this for a long time, and they edit his stuff pretty hard. Not to say he's not a great pilot, but there's more going on behind the scenes.

[Edit] I should have added that Nurks showreel above was captured on a Gopro (which is higher image quality than the DJI) and was stabilized as well.
 
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Thank you for your replies, I really appreciate that. What do you think about this:
It looks like I could learn safer and still try to get some cinematic footage from it.
Also I can learn how to build while following the video.
Let me know what you think
 
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That is fine, but keep another thing in mind... CineWhoops are not capable of freestyle flight to any real degree, any quick moves with the sticks and it will become very unstable and likely crash. If you want HD footi and get that while you are doing tricks, you will not want a CineWhoop. These are for safer (ducted props) and smoth cinematics, not tricks. IMHO
 
I think that Cinewhoop is your end product; that's what's going to give you the best footage to round out what your getting with the Mavic. As was stated above, they're not for the wild freestyle shots we see, it's not terribly fast, not easy to fly, and not very tough when it comes to crashes. For most pilots this is their second or third rig, not the one they learn to fly on. It is a very robust and functional film craft though, I've built and tuned one for a client and I've been waffling over building one for myself ever since.

I'll sum it up and say that FPV is not a "one drone" hobby, we all have a few different rigs. The Cinewhoop is your workhorse : a tool not a toy. You should also budget in a more "traditional" rig that you can take out and crash around for practice. Obtaining smooth shots from these rigs is indescribably pleasing, but it's going to take some practice. The second rig is also invaluable for troubleshooting the first, should you get parts failures.
 
I can attest to the posts made by RTK and HTP. I just bought an Iflight Cenebee Hybrid 4k (see picture). I liked the review by Drone Camps RC. Thanks to HTP, I got it in the air this weekend. The 2.7k footage I'm getting out of it is fantastic but the bird is very dainty. It's just too small and delicate. I ran it up high on one of the first batteries, just to take a look around and a prop spun off, se4nding it spiraling to the concrete below. One of the ducts was bent badly and it took quite a bit of effort to reform. I'm going to continue to use it but not for anything more than pleasure, picture flying. It's definitely not a "freestyle" quad.

Jerry
 

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Thank's to all of you for your help. I changed my mind again and I will probably go for a 5 inches with Joshua Bardwell video.
I think it is going to be better for me to learn how to build one for the first time and I honestly want to enjoy flying one 5 inches and hopefully make some good footage from it in the future.
Last question though, what makes a drone cinematic? Should I get some smaller motors with smaller Kv right? I guess there is a difference in the props as well then the PID tuning?

Thank's to all of you! This forum is awesome!
 
Last question though, what makes a drone cinematic?
It's how you fly it, and ONLY how you fly it, that makes anything "cinematic". That said, lower KV with a lower cell count (1750kv on 4s) is going to be more docile. Then if you want more power you just use a higher cell count battery like a 5s or a 6s

6s kv (somewhere from 1700 - 1900) is my sweet spot for filming because you can easily drop to a lower voltage battery and that's going to make it less powerful, and that smooths out your flight. Their suggestion is 2207 at 4s kv (2450) and that's going to be hard to fly at first IMO (and those motors are grossly overpriced) In fact, I'm not in love with almost any of the parts they've chosen... But I'm stupid picky at this point :)

Take it with a grain of salt, but I'd build 6s capable (not 4s like that build)
This stack is the one I'd choose for myself

I understand you think you might want to go with their exact parts so you can follow along, but honestly it rarely works out like that. You're going to have questions on your first build no matter the parts list, and we'll be able to help you out
 
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Thank you so much RTK for your advice.
The stack you suggest is quite similar to the one in the video in the way you build your quad with. So if it is better I will probably go with it and won't have a lot of trouble following the video.
There is one thing I don't really get though. As I understood there is a voltage regulator in both stacks to connect the dji air unit. So basically I can connect not only a 4S battery but anything between 3S and 6S for the Newbeedrone and between 2S and 6S for the stack that you suggest (as mentioned in the FC and ESC spec). Am I wrong?

Fort the motors, how about those: Lumenier 2207-11 1750KV JohnnyFPV V2 Motor

Again thank you so much!
 
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The stack you suggest is quite similar to the one in the video in the way you build your quad with. So if it is better I will probably go with it and won't have a lot of trouble following the video.
I didn't realize they do have a 6s capable stack, it's just their motors that are built for 4s. Their stack is a little cheaper (an F4 as opposed to a newer f7) but I doubt you'd notice the difference, so on a second look that stack would be just fine.

Nothing wrong with those motors, but you tend to pay extra when there's a pilots name attached. At that price I can wholeheartedly recommend T-motors, arguably the best in the biz.

Also, for some great browsing options check out Rotorbuilds.com . You can search by part (like the DJI unit) and see what other people have done with it, and where they bought their parts

 
Thank you for the advice! I will go with T-motors then.
So if I go with one of these stacks I can connect any batteries from 3s to 6s without burning the dji module?
 
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Hello! I am back again :)

I ordered all the parts: T-motor F60 1750Kv, Succex-D MINI F7 Twing + 60A Stack, DJI air unit, crossfire nano RX with crossfire immortal T antenna V2 (as I already bought the Jumper T16 controller before) and Vifly finder 2 Buzzer.
I also bought 2 batteries: 4s 1500mAh and 6s 1100mAh
I assembled all of it and use a stop smoker just in case when I plug the battery.
When I connect the 4s battery everything seems to be normal ( I could test the motors with beta flight)
The problem is that the fuse (2A) of my stop smoker blows when I connect the 6s battery.

Any ideas why?

Thank you

1.jpg
 

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