Cant get off the ground, HELP!!!!!!

[Aggravated]

Hi folks im extremely new here but I sure hope yall can help me out. I just bought a Wizard 220 brand new and completely stock. The thing didnt come with much in the way of instructions but I did figure out how to unlock the motors. Now ive learned how to hit the throttle and watch it flip over. Unfortunately thats about all I can do with it. Please tell me what Im doing wrong and how to get it to lift off. No fancy tricks yet I just want to start slow and go UP!!!!!

Oh yeah the camera also sends a nice picture to the headset.

 

[Wayno52]

Hi and welcome to the forum.
Are you sure the props are on correctly?
Wayne

 

[HighTechPauper]

Good call Wayno, flipping could also be FC orientation, x220 is either -90 or 270 degrees on yaw axis

 

[Aggravated]

Hi and welcome to the forum.
Are you sure the props are on correctly?
Wayne

You called it Wayneo. Props were on the wrong motors. Im so glad it was some easily fixed thing though I do feel a lottle silly for missing that.

While I have you whats a good low cost battery charger I can buy?

Thanks for the help folks it was appreciated.

 

[lilgiant3737]

RDQ Series 1300mah 4S 100C FPV Lipo Battery

This is a great starter battery, buy at least 2 and a good charger!!!

 

[HighTechPauper]

Which battery charger is a tougher question than you realize, you are thinking you just need to charge a battery, but it goes a little deeper. The big questions are...

Will I need an AC capable charger or can I work with a DC only charger? (to run a DC charger you either need a big car or boat battery and some way to charge it back up/car battery charger)

Can I wait 1 hour watching the charger (to make sure it doesn't catch fire and burn down the house) for each battery to give me 5 minutes or so of flight time and then wait another hour to fly again? (Need to parallel charge means more amps needed)
.
Can I afford to get a low end charger if I am going to have to upgrade and spend more fairly soon? (again more amps needed and cost of low end eats into the cost of a better charger)

How many batteries will I have? (more batteries means more time spent babysitting low end charger as I charge 1 at a time)

Based on the (honest) answer to these questions the minimum I would suggest one of the below DC only or AC/DC models...

https://www.google.com/search?q=acc...UN8KHTiFAaUQ_AUICigB&biw=1280&bih=593&dpr=1.5

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.7.355....0.pbUkDf_DQz8


If on the other hand you will get 4-6+ batteries and you want to charge 1 time and babysit for 1 hour only (or so) then I would suggest the following...

DC only (you have big car battery and a way to charge it) "iSDT SC-620"

AC capable "Hitec X2 Plus"


IMHO

 

[HighTechPauper]

If you have a charger capable of a decent current (amps) you will also want parallel charge board (and likely a SAFE parallel charge board with poly fuses)

This is the best (and safest) bang for the buck
STRIX 4s Parallel Charging Board 2.0 - JB Signature Line - www.readymaderc.com

do not get a board that doesn't have poly fuses but if you will need to charge 2-6s batteries I would suggest this one. This can only charge 4 at a time (instead of 10 max above) but will do 2-6s
Safe Parallel Board for JST-XH & XT60 - ProgressiveRC

 

[HighTechPauper]

I also forgot to mention, you can get a Power Supply Unit to run a DC only but that makes it more expensive and cumbersome, so if I didn't have decent sized batteries I would go with an ac/dc, if you make or buy some alligator clip to banana plug cables you can use AC at home and use the car battery in the field still to keep charging. But don't charge so long that the car won't start haha

 

[Futuramille]

That was a great synopsis Randy! thanks!
I'd definitely go out of the gate with a high quality charger that can do AC (home) & DC (field charging)... or youll replace it later with a charger that does.
batteries are a main expense and taking care of them without burning something down is paramount day in day out.

 

[Aggravated]

Ok I just ordered a Imax B6 AC. I have a box full of old plugin power packs and Im sure I can fix one of those up to power it at home. If I dont have one big enough Ive been wanting a variable power supply any how.
I have to say you folks are very helpful and its appreciated very much by me. Your answers have been both fast and informative.
Thank you very much.

 

[HighTechPauper]

With the B6AC you will not need a power supply, it is built in to the charger, just plug it into AC and charge.

 

[Futuramille]

you'll like the imax, that's what i use and no problems. yea, just need the cord.

you can use a direct 100-240 ac in and I charge six 4s 1350mah at once, or use adapter or car battery 11 to 18v dc at 1A. i like the b6ac v2 better. i can track progress from my phone.
I just use the b6ac v1 for fatshark batteries.

 

[Futuramille]

...you need this to get control/updates on your phone (wifi). works for me fairly well though i don't often use it. my charging area is 15' away and in sight of my work office area.
https://www.amazon.com/SKYRC-SK-600075-WiFi-Module-Compatible/dp/B00XL7GIMS

...btw, there are alot of counterfeits on this. i think my v1 is counterfeit. be sure to buy from a solid seller. anything costing less that 45$ should be considered suspect. the good ones will actually state "authentic" in the addvertisement and will have this holographic sticker

 

[HighTechPauper]

I would do without the WiFi fob, I have one too but regret spending the money on it.

 

[Futuramille]

me too.. i simply don't like being out of eyesight or at least earshot of it so its in a drawer.

 

[HighTechPauper]

I don't know about yours Futura, but my wifi fob isn't that usable for me because it is it's own hotspot I need to connect to so range is pretty limited. If I could connect it to my home network and then get that info anywhere I had cell or wifi it would be much more usable and I wouldn't consider it a bad investment.

@Aggravated, Futura is right on the counterfeits, but I will say that every charger is unique to some degree, and even the clones are not the worst as many use them with great success. No matter what you do, take a hard look at the operation of things all along, but especially when you first introduce a new piece of equipment or process into your charging routine. The things I try to do religiously are...


Always check the cells and total voltage plus it's physical condition before I ever put it on to charge, and especially before I put it on parallel charge. It is so easy to damage good batteries or start a fire if a bad battery is added when parallel charging.

I always charge at 1C, that is safest and best for the batteries, when you do this a "good" Lipo battery will actually get cool and even feel cold as it charges, heat at 1C is a sign of trouble.

Really pay attention when you plug in your main power AND balance leads, it is VERY possible to have them insert or touch when backwards and that will be bad to very bad, so be very careful here. You hate to lose traces on your parallel board, or short and damage a battery(s) or even worse it catches fire, so just like props cutting your finger off, keep a healthy respect for batteries and charging functions.

Hopefully your charger shows up, works flawlessly, and charges your cells to 4.209 exactly... one can hope anyway LOL

 

[HighTechPauper]

I forgot one more big item for parallel charging, ALWAYS plug the main leads in first, they can handle a bigger rush current than the balance leads.

I have had batteries lose a cell while in storage for a few days to a few months, they are bad so they come out of use. A good battery will hold storage voltage well, so anything that can't keep up with its paired cells is a bad battery and my quads are too important to lose over a bad battery

 

[Aggravated]

Ok Im not going to worry about the WIFI fob at this time. Maybe Ill get one at a later date. It would appear theres quite a bit of specialized knowledge needed to safely and competently charge LIPO batteries. Alot more than i was expecting but ill figure it out and ill post any questions on the subject here.
I had read alot of reviews on the battery chargers and gathered there were alot of copycats out there. Was surprised to see them sold on Amazon pretty openly if you can read between the lines and know what to look for. The holo sticker was mentioned a good bit as the mark of the genuine IMAX charger. Wonder how long before they just start adding copycat holo stickers.
Thanks again for the tips.

 

[Aggravated]

Ok i said I had ordered the B6AC but i was wrong it was just the B6. Good news theres a holo sticker on it. Bad news its not the big holo sticker just the QC passed one but it appears to work fine so far. My buddy tried to plug my battery into the original charger which came with my drone but he did so upside down and shorted it out. This burnt out one of the cells or whatever it does. Anyways it only reads 3 of the 4 cells on the charger but I have more batteries coming in the mail plus a low cost cheap drone. I figured id better learn how to fly the cheap one before I tore the Wizard all to hell just learning the basics.

 

[Futuramille]

the B6 will work fine. good luck and happy flying! let us all know how the learning curve goes. its a great hobby